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Appreciating the Flavors of West Bank Appreciating the Flavors of West Bank
(3 months later)
JERUSALEM — Michael Ratney, the United States consul general here, is a fan of the television show “Chopped,” in which cooks must whip up an appetizer, entrée and dessert from baskets of disparate, often unpalatable, ingredients. So for a dinner party last week, Mr. Ratney gave the consulate’s Swiss-born chef, Ursula Imran al Sous, a challenge: Make a menu out of items from West Bank purveyors that Washington underwrites. JERUSALEM — Michael Ratney, the United States consul general here, is a fan of the television show “Chopped,” in which cooks must whip up an appetizer, entrée and dessert from baskets of disparate, often unpalatable, ingredients. So for a dinner party last week, Mr. Ratney gave the consulate’s Swiss-born chef, Ursula Imran al Sous, a challenge: Make a menu out of items from West Bank purveyors that Washington underwrites.
The meal was not particularly Palestinian. There was no maklouba, the upside-down chicken-rice classic, or even hummus. Instead, Ms. Imran al Sous’s roasted leg of lamb stuffed with arugula pesto, Lyonnaise potatoes and rustic rosemary-onion tart were supposed to showcase the export potential of Palestinian producers.The meal was not particularly Palestinian. There was no maklouba, the upside-down chicken-rice classic, or even hummus. Instead, Ms. Imran al Sous’s roasted leg of lamb stuffed with arugula pesto, Lyonnaise potatoes and rustic rosemary-onion tart were supposed to showcase the export potential of Palestinian producers.
“You look for things where you can step out of politics for a few minutes,” Mr. Ratney explained.“You look for things where you can step out of politics for a few minutes,” Mr. Ratney explained.
Nice try. The dinner was held three days after the swearing-in of the new Palestinian cabinet, which grew out of a reconciliation pact between the Palestine Liberation Organization and Hamas, the militant Islamist movement blacklisted by the United States as a terrorist organization. The Obama administration had incensed Israel by quickly announcing that it would keep working with the government. Members of Congress threatened to halt financial support under a clause that bars aid to any Palestinian government in which Hamas has “undue influence.” Nice try. The dinner was held three days after the swearing-in of the new Palestinian cabinet, which grew out of a reconciliation pact between the Palestine Liberation Organization and Hamas, the militant Islamist movement blacklisted by the United States as a terrorist organization. The Obama administration had incensed Israel by quickly announcing that it would keep working with the government. Members of Congress threatened to halt financial support under a clause that bars aid to any Palestinian government in which Hamas has “undue influence.”
Which raises the question: What does Washington buy for the Palestinians anyhow?Which raises the question: What does Washington buy for the Palestinians anyhow?
Of $440 million appropriated this year, $70 million is for security. An additional $200 million goes to pay down debts: gas bills, hospital costs, bank loans. The rest is spent by the United States Agency for International Development, about half on water and infrastructure projects. Some $21 million supports private enterprise, $6 million of it in Mr. Ratney’s beloved food sector.Of $440 million appropriated this year, $70 million is for security. An additional $200 million goes to pay down debts: gas bills, hospital costs, bank loans. The rest is spent by the United States Agency for International Development, about half on water and infrastructure projects. Some $21 million supports private enterprise, $6 million of it in Mr. Ratney’s beloved food sector.
American dollars have helped strawberry growers multiply output to nine tons per quarter-acre. They have spurred “Fruits of Peace,” a forthcoming Ben & Jerry’s ice cream flavor using Palestinian tahini, dates and almonds. A $200,000 grant bought a fancy drier that allowed Dead Sea Salts, a 50-year-old company, to introduce a high-end line called 424 — a reference to the number of meters below sea level at the factory’s location — whose flavors include seaweed, orange and chili, and Merlot. The labels for 424 are in English, not Arabic, though the larger bottles have a picture of the Dome of the Rock, the Islamic shrine.American dollars have helped strawberry growers multiply output to nine tons per quarter-acre. They have spurred “Fruits of Peace,” a forthcoming Ben & Jerry’s ice cream flavor using Palestinian tahini, dates and almonds. A $200,000 grant bought a fancy drier that allowed Dead Sea Salts, a 50-year-old company, to introduce a high-end line called 424 — a reference to the number of meters below sea level at the factory’s location — whose flavors include seaweed, orange and chili, and Merlot. The labels for 424 are in English, not Arabic, though the larger bottles have a picture of the Dome of the Rock, the Islamic shrine.
“Everybody sells salt,” said Husam Hallak, the general manager. “The trick is how do you get it different.”“Everybody sells salt,” said Husam Hallak, the general manager. “The trick is how do you get it different.”
Ms. Imran al Sous came to Jerusalem 30 years ago for a job at the landmark American Colony Hotel, where she met and married a Palestinian lifeguard (the oldest of their four daughters is en route to a Ph.D. in engineering at Princeton). For nine years, she has been chef at the consulate, Washington’s diplomatic mission for Palestinian affairs (the embassy in Tel Aviv deals with Israel).Ms. Imran al Sous came to Jerusalem 30 years ago for a job at the landmark American Colony Hotel, where she met and married a Palestinian lifeguard (the oldest of their four daughters is en route to a Ph.D. in engineering at Princeton). For nine years, she has been chef at the consulate, Washington’s diplomatic mission for Palestinian affairs (the embassy in Tel Aviv deals with Israel).
Mr. Ratney hosts fewer dinners than his predecessors, because Palestinians are less and less willing to come to West Jerusalem. Most of the guests last week were international journalists.Mr. Ratney hosts fewer dinners than his predecessors, because Palestinians are less and less willing to come to West Jerusalem. Most of the guests last week were international journalists.
The chef usually shops at Supersol, a gleaming Israeli grocery store up the block, with an occasional foray to the famed Mahane Yehuda market for fresh fish and fragrant spices. This time, she drove an hour and a half to the Solidarity Sheep Farm near Nablus, then butchered the lamb chops herself.The chef usually shops at Supersol, a gleaming Israeli grocery store up the block, with an occasional foray to the famed Mahane Yehuda market for fresh fish and fragrant spices. This time, she drove an hour and a half to the Solidarity Sheep Farm near Nablus, then butchered the lamb chops herself.
Organic olive oil from Canaan Fair Trade in Jenin, piles of mint and basil from Thimar near Jericho, Medjool dates from Tulkarm, flour from Birzeit and apple vinegar from Bethany were all delivered to her doorstep.Organic olive oil from Canaan Fair Trade in Jenin, piles of mint and basil from Thimar near Jericho, Medjool dates from Tulkarm, flour from Birzeit and apple vinegar from Bethany were all delivered to her doorstep.
“I prefer balsamico, personally,” Ms. Imran al Sous admitted as she chopped parsley and sliced soft white cheese for four separate salads. Broadly, she said of the ingredients, “I was surprised how good it is, and how tasty.”“I prefer balsamico, personally,” Ms. Imran al Sous admitted as she chopped parsley and sliced soft white cheese for four separate salads. Broadly, she said of the ingredients, “I was surprised how good it is, and how tasty.”
The carrot salad was spiked from a jar labeled “chili souce.” The coffee was roasted in Qalqilya. The red wine was among the first bottles made at Taybeh, the West Bank’s only brewery (Mr. Ratney had to fill out a special form to serve non-American wine).The carrot salad was spiked from a jar labeled “chili souce.” The coffee was roasted in Qalqilya. The red wine was among the first bottles made at Taybeh, the West Bank’s only brewery (Mr. Ratney had to fill out a special form to serve non-American wine).
The butter, alas, was Israeli. On “Chopped,” too, chefs supplement their baskets from the pantry and fridge.The butter, alas, was Israeli. On “Chopped,” too, chefs supplement their baskets from the pantry and fridge.