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Is cheese aged on wood boards unsafe? No, but foolish regulators are Is cheese aged on wood boards unsafe? No, but foolish regulators are
(2 months later)
If you're going to opine about cheese, it's best to know your washed rind (stinky) from your bloomy rind (buttery). In the States, you're the sad bearer of the news that cheeses aged for less than 60 days must be made of pasteurized milk. And if you're going to play armchair cheesemonger when the US government's vast regulatory apparatus comes up at your next dinner party, you really need to know your stuff – about how cheese is made, and what the government requires of its makers.If you're going to opine about cheese, it's best to know your washed rind (stinky) from your bloomy rind (buttery). In the States, you're the sad bearer of the news that cheeses aged for less than 60 days must be made of pasteurized milk. And if you're going to play armchair cheesemonger when the US government's vast regulatory apparatus comes up at your next dinner party, you really need to know your stuff – about how cheese is made, and what the government requires of its makers.
Apparently, that's more than can be said of the chief cheese regulator for the FDA. Monica Metz learned this the hard way last week, when emails from her office to the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets were made public. Metz, who is a branch chief in the food safety division of the US Food and Drug Administration, was asked to clarify FDA policy on the use of wooden boards in cheese-aging – a millennia-old practice that some consider intrinsic to almost any cheese of a quality better than Velveeta. Apparently, that's more than can be said of the chief cheese regulator for the FDA.Monica Metz learned this the hard way last week, when emails from her office to the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets were made public. Metz, who is a branch chief in the food safety division of the US Food and Drug Administration, was asked to clarify FDA policy on the use of wooden boards in cheese-aging – a millennia-old practice that some consider intrinsic to almost any cheese of a quality better than Velveeta.
In the newly-public emails, Metz explained that cheese makers are required to comply with federal regulations, which includes the mandate that "all plant equipment and utensils shall be so designed and of such material and workmanship as to be adequately cleanable, and shall be properly maintained." She then went on to elaborate about the ways in which wooden boards cannot be adequately cleaned or sanitized – leading to the inevitable conclusion that cheese producers using wooden boards were at risk of being shuttered or, at least, barred from selling their cheese in the U.S. In the newly-public emails, Metz explained that cheese makers are required to comply with federal regulations, which includes the mandatethat "all plant equipment and utensils shall be so designed and of such material and workmanship as to be adequately cleanable, and shall be properly maintained." She then went on to elaborate about the ways in which wooden boards cannot be adequately cleaned or sanitized – leading to the inevitable conclusion that cheese producers using wooden boards were at risk of being shuttered or, at least, barred from selling their cheese in the U.S.
"Keep Your Government Hands Off My Cheese", "Is the FDA waging a war on artisanal cheese?", "Has the FDA Brought on a Cheese Apocalypse?": the internet went wild. And then the FDA, in an unusual act of actually appeasing the public, was moved to issue a clarification of Metz's conclusions, noting that "the communication was not intended as an official policy statement" and that "the language used in this communication may have appeared more definitive than it should have, in light of the agency's actual practices on this issue"."Keep Your Government Hands Off My Cheese", "Is the FDA waging a war on artisanal cheese?", "Has the FDA Brought on a Cheese Apocalypse?": the internet went wild. And then the FDA, in an unusual act of actually appeasing the public, was moved to issue a clarification of Metz's conclusions, noting that "the communication was not intended as an official policy statement" and that "the language used in this communication may have appeared more definitive than it should have, in light of the agency's actual practices on this issue".
In other words, the most controversial cheese official of the year was as wrong as the public and press thought she was – at least when it came to the broad applicability of the original ruling.In other words, the most controversial cheese official of the year was as wrong as the public and press thought she was – at least when it came to the broad applicability of the original ruling.
The problem was that one bureaucrat – with apparent limited knowledge about the cheese-making process – made the unsubstantiated leap that any maker with an operation resembling a bad one must be similarly fated to experience widespread contamination. (The whole exchange with Metz started after the agency twice cited one manufacturer for dangerously contaminated facilities including, among multiple other problems, pathogens on its wooden aging boards.)The problem was that one bureaucrat – with apparent limited knowledge about the cheese-making process – made the unsubstantiated leap that any maker with an operation resembling a bad one must be similarly fated to experience widespread contamination. (The whole exchange with Metz started after the agency twice cited one manufacturer for dangerously contaminated facilities including, among multiple other problems, pathogens on its wooden aging boards.)
When pressed about the January ruling by the office of Vermont Congressman Peter Welch in March Ms. Metz replied, "I was told [wood boards] are not permitted and never have been."When pressed about the January ruling by the office of Vermont Congressman Peter Welch in March Ms. Metz replied, "I was told [wood boards] are not permitted and never have been."
If the person in charge of safety regulation for the entire cheese industry for the United States of America is making new policy because "someone told her" that it was already law, then it's not just the safety of our supply chain we need to be worried about. If the person in charge of safety regulation for the entire cheese industry for the United States of America ismaking new policy because "someone told her" that it was already law, then it's not just the safety of our supply chain we need to be worried about.
For one, the idea that inexperienced bureaucrats can issue far reaching legal policy, in writing, that affects a multi-billion dollar international industry without supervision or even being absolutely sure that they know what they are talking about should scare anyone, not just cheese lovers. For one, the ideathat inexperienced bureaucrats can issue far reaching legal policy, in writing, that affects a multi-billion dollar international industry without supervision or even being absolutely sure that they know what they are talking about should scare anyone, not just cheese lovers.
But while the impact of Metz's error, had it been enforced, on the American artisanal cheesemaking industry and the largely-rural economies that it supports would be devastating – it could have compromised 75% of American specialty cheese makers – the trade implications of banning wood boards for cheese aging would have been catastrophic. On the export of two cheeses alone – Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano, both aged on wooden boards – Italy would have stood to lose its second largest export market (representing nearly 25m lbs) in 2013, and Americans would've lost access to two of Italy's most delicious and beloved cheeses. That's not to mention the other international cheeses, including Swiss Gruyere and English clothbound cheddar, which American cheese lovers would have been denied. But while the impact of Metz's error, had it been enforced, on the American artisanal cheesemaking industry and the largely-rural economies that it supports would be devastating – it could have compromised 75% of American specialty cheese makers – the trade implications of banning wood boards for cheese aging would have been catastrophic. On the export of two cheeses alone – Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano, both aged on wooden boards – Italy would have stood to lose its second largest export market (representing nearly 25m lbs) in 2013, and Americans would've lost access to two of Italy's most delicious and beloved cheeses. That's not to mention the other international cheeses, including Swiss Gruyere and English clothbound cheddar, which American cheese lovers would have been denied.
Perhaps it's overly nostalgic, but I can't help but focus on the fact that for generations, cheese makers around the world have produced wholesome, safe delicious food thanks, in part, to the role of wood in cheese aging. Fast forward to today, when a former quality control manager for Leprino Foods ("the world's largest mozzarella cheese manufacturer") can – in apparent isolation– threaten an edict that not only eradicates that history but actually stands in conflict with official policy position.Perhaps it's overly nostalgic, but I can't help but focus on the fact that for generations, cheese makers around the world have produced wholesome, safe delicious food thanks, in part, to the role of wood in cheese aging. Fast forward to today, when a former quality control manager for Leprino Foods ("the world's largest mozzarella cheese manufacturer") can – in apparent isolation– threaten an edict that not only eradicates that history but actually stands in conflict with official policy position.
Responsible cheese makers manage risk every day, and they deserve the opportunity to make better tasting food for the public. As a member of the public, I'd say we certainly deserve the right to enjoy it.Responsible cheese makers manage risk every day, and they deserve the opportunity to make better tasting food for the public. As a member of the public, I'd say we certainly deserve the right to enjoy it.