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| World Cup fans of all stripes revel on beach despite Fifa’s colonising | World Cup fans of all stripes revel on beach despite Fifa’s colonising |
| (about 14 hours later) | |
| Should anyone be looking for one place in the whole of Brazil that encapsulates the World Cup experience for fans, they are recommended to head straight to Copacabana Beach in Rio. | Should anyone be looking for one place in the whole of Brazil that encapsulates the World Cup experience for fans, they are recommended to head straight to Copacabana Beach in Rio. |
| Contrary to what Barry Manilow might suggest, it is not north of Havana, but it is the hottest place in Copa do Mundo, where the most fans from the most countries gather, strolling up and down the beach and its black and white cobbled boulevard, drinking – if from North or South America, coconut juice straight out of the fruit or – if European – beer and capirinhas, from 8am onwards. | Contrary to what Barry Manilow might suggest, it is not north of Havana, but it is the hottest place in Copa do Mundo, where the most fans from the most countries gather, strolling up and down the beach and its black and white cobbled boulevard, drinking – if from North or South America, coconut juice straight out of the fruit or – if European – beer and capirinhas, from 8am onwards. |
| Rio is, simply, the most fun of the host cities and so plenty are simply staying here instead of traipsing around the country, happy to catch whatever games come. The biggest presence on the beach by far, after Brazil fans, are the Argentinians, but there are also plenty of Russia, America, Australia, France and, yes, England fans, or to use the American journalist Adrian Chen’s phrase, the Sad English. | Rio is, simply, the most fun of the host cities and so plenty are simply staying here instead of traipsing around the country, happy to catch whatever games come. The biggest presence on the beach by far, after Brazil fans, are the Argentinians, but there are also plenty of Russia, America, Australia, France and, yes, England fans, or to use the American journalist Adrian Chen’s phrase, the Sad English. |
| But the World Cup is not all classic Rio joy, and neither is Copacabana. At one end you find the deadening corporate fist of Fifa thumping down into the sand with Fan Fest. Those who have never been to a World Cup are, in all likelihood, living in currently blissful ignorance of Fan Fest. That bliss shall now be shattered. | But the World Cup is not all classic Rio joy, and neither is Copacabana. At one end you find the deadening corporate fist of Fifa thumping down into the sand with Fan Fest. Those who have never been to a World Cup are, in all likelihood, living in currently blissful ignorance of Fan Fest. That bliss shall now be shattered. |
| Back in 2002, Fifa noticed how popular the free screenings of the games were in the host cities, so they decided that, as they were making so much money out of the rest of the World Cup, it would be ridiculous not to cash in on this, too. | Back in 2002, Fifa noticed how popular the free screenings of the games were in the host cities, so they decided that, as they were making so much money out of the rest of the World Cup, it would be ridiculous not to cash in on this, too. |
| So since 2006, there have been Fifa Fan Fests, which are perhaps best described as a festival with all the worst things of a festival, and some football: gigantic adverts for precious corporate sponsors are everywhere and, while entrance is free, the miles and miles of Fifa-branded tat on sale is certainly not, ranging from R$30 (£7.90) face paint to R$480 (£126) bottles of Fifa wine. It all adds nicely to the untaxed billions Fifa will gleefully reap in Brazil, as they squat in the country like a greedy bullfrog on a lilypad. | |
| The screenings of the matches are more fun, mainly because they’re on the beach, and it is a testament to its appeal that so many show up at Fan Fest , despite having to stand next to giant adverts for cars, soda and beer that scream out at least as deafeningly as the football itself. | The screenings of the matches are more fun, mainly because they’re on the beach, and it is a testament to its appeal that so many show up at Fan Fest , despite having to stand next to giant adverts for cars, soda and beer that scream out at least as deafeningly as the football itself. |
| Speaking of beer, a little further down the strip is the possibly not chic and boutique Budweiser Hotel, known the rest of the time as the Hotel Pestana, but renamed and redesigned for the World Cup. Outside, a giant inflatable beer bottle bobs cheerily in the wind and behind it a Mini Cooper, swathed in Budweiser logos and looking like a noble animal taxidermied into a cruelly humiliating position. | Speaking of beer, a little further down the strip is the possibly not chic and boutique Budweiser Hotel, known the rest of the time as the Hotel Pestana, but renamed and redesigned for the World Cup. Outside, a giant inflatable beer bottle bobs cheerily in the wind and behind it a Mini Cooper, swathed in Budweiser logos and looking like a noble animal taxidermied into a cruelly humiliating position. |
| Tragically, the Budweiser Hotel is not for civilians: it is reserved for what was described by one hotel employee as “friends of Budweiser” and various superstar DJs, including, allegedly, Fatboy Slim. Presumably the Budweiser Hotel will not be around for 2022 in dry Qatar. Although seeing as Fifa made Brazil lift its decade-old alcohol ban in stadiums to appease Bud, it seems not entirely impossible that Sepp Blatter will force a reverse on Qatar’s prohibition. | Tragically, the Budweiser Hotel is not for civilians: it is reserved for what was described by one hotel employee as “friends of Budweiser” and various superstar DJs, including, allegedly, Fatboy Slim. Presumably the Budweiser Hotel will not be around for 2022 in dry Qatar. Although seeing as Fifa made Brazil lift its decade-old alcohol ban in stadiums to appease Bud, it seems not entirely impossible that Sepp Blatter will force a reverse on Qatar’s prohibition. |
| But get past the Fifa and beerish nonsense and you see the real joy of Brazil’s World Cup. Alongside the usual Copacabana sights of buffed up body-builders, middle-aged surfers and teenage skateboarders, flags of seemingly all nations are being used as towels and football kits of every stripe are worn. Rio vendors sell Brazil flags – probably the most awesome flag there is – but also British, French and Japanese ones, while sand artists make sculptures of Neymar and the trophy. | But get past the Fifa and beerish nonsense and you see the real joy of Brazil’s World Cup. Alongside the usual Copacabana sights of buffed up body-builders, middle-aged surfers and teenage skateboarders, flags of seemingly all nations are being used as towels and football kits of every stripe are worn. Rio vendors sell Brazil flags – probably the most awesome flag there is – but also British, French and Japanese ones, while sand artists make sculptures of Neymar and the trophy. |
| “Ah no, the Socceroos losing won’t ruin our holiday – we had two brave defeats,” grins Peter Velez from Sydney. “We’re staying in Rio another two weeks and will go to a few more games here. Rio’s awesome – why should we be depressed?” | “Ah no, the Socceroos losing won’t ruin our holiday – we had two brave defeats,” grins Peter Velez from Sydney. “We’re staying in Rio another two weeks and will go to a few more games here. Rio’s awesome – why should we be depressed?” |
| For the English, though, the loss the night before was still fresh. “How do I feel? Like this,” said Paul Lamkin, pointing at the image of Paul Gascoigne crying on his T-shirt. “But I didn’t expect them to win the World Cup, and it’s sort of more exciting when England are out and you can just relax and watch the game.” | For the English, though, the loss the night before was still fresh. “How do I feel? Like this,” said Paul Lamkin, pointing at the image of Paul Gascoigne crying on his T-shirt. “But I didn’t expect them to win the World Cup, and it’s sort of more exciting when England are out and you can just relax and watch the game.” |
| Adam Reed, Freddy Marks and Brett Davis were in varying minds about how upset to feel: “I’m embarrassed by it, to be honest, England losing the first two games,” said Marks, a Manchester United fan. “I’m not,” replied Reed, a defiant Liverpool fan. “We’re England!” bellowed Marks. “We’re a second-tier team!” replied Reed. | Adam Reed, Freddy Marks and Brett Davis were in varying minds about how upset to feel: “I’m embarrassed by it, to be honest, England losing the first two games,” said Marks, a Manchester United fan. “I’m not,” replied Reed, a defiant Liverpool fan. “We’re England!” bellowed Marks. “We’re a second-tier team!” replied Reed. |
| But if England lose in Belo Horizonte, will it ruin their World Cup holiday? “Oh no, of course not!” replied Reed, looking surprised. And they then disappeared among the palm trees and the fans, looking, for England fans, pretty happy. | But if England lose in Belo Horizonte, will it ruin their World Cup holiday? “Oh no, of course not!” replied Reed, looking surprised. And they then disappeared among the palm trees and the fans, looking, for England fans, pretty happy. |