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Denim and pinstripes make a show at men's fashion weeks Denim and pinstripes make a show at men's fashion weeks
(2 months later)
Conventionally, pinstripe and denim are treated as polar opposites in fashion, but in recent shows, both materials have been reinterpreted: the formality of pinstripe reimagined in slimmed-down, edgier styles and, conversely, denim interpreted in more structured forms.Conventionally, pinstripe and denim are treated as polar opposites in fashion, but in recent shows, both materials have been reinterpreted: the formality of pinstripe reimagined in slimmed-down, edgier styles and, conversely, denim interpreted in more structured forms.
If jeans are your staple, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about, but in high fashion, denim was missing from menswear runways for a good few seasons as tailored collections became the focus and streetwear went formal. When it did make a return, it came back treated, bleached and torn (as evinced by the current ripped jeans revival) but for spring/summer 2015, many designers have given denim a new story.If jeans are your staple, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about, but in high fashion, denim was missing from menswear runways for a good few seasons as tailored collections became the focus and streetwear went formal. When it did make a return, it came back treated, bleached and torn (as evinced by the current ripped jeans revival) but for spring/summer 2015, many designers have given denim a new story.
In London, in a collection inspired by the British seaside, E Tautz showed the kind of premium denim prized by jean aficionados formed into robust tops and rugged outerwear, way beyond the usual jeans and jean jacket formula. Craig Green's stirring solo debut show also featured denim with straps and fastenings attached to multiple layers, like the quilted protection beneath samurai armour. Tom Ford, usually the bastion of buttoned-up dressing, presented a mostly denim collection, announcing his aim to create jeans for a range of male body types.In London, in a collection inspired by the British seaside, E Tautz showed the kind of premium denim prized by jean aficionados formed into robust tops and rugged outerwear, way beyond the usual jeans and jean jacket formula. Craig Green's stirring solo debut show also featured denim with straps and fastenings attached to multiple layers, like the quilted protection beneath samurai armour. Tom Ford, usually the bastion of buttoned-up dressing, presented a mostly denim collection, announcing his aim to create jeans for a range of male body types.
Not all London designers were treating denim with such reverence, however: Sibling (who last summer presented high-waisted, 50s-style cinched jeans) have clearly been wielding implements over their "scarified" denims but the punctures were in deliberate oversized spots rather than having any randomised sense of "distressing". James Long's denims retained the fabric's bohemian values, often oversized in shape and trimmed with colourful ribbons.Not all London designers were treating denim with such reverence, however: Sibling (who last summer presented high-waisted, 50s-style cinched jeans) have clearly been wielding implements over their "scarified" denims but the punctures were in deliberate oversized spots rather than having any randomised sense of "distressing". James Long's denims retained the fabric's bohemian values, often oversized in shape and trimmed with colourful ribbons.
In Milan, with denim being central to Prada's SS15 collection, the conversation around the fabric became official, as denim pieces with obvious topstitching (a signature of their leatherwear) created very deliberate outlines. While some are pondering whether this is Miuccia Prada's statement on "normcore" (the unisex trend of wearing unbranded, androgynous clothing as a back-handed style statement) the collection could be more simply described as pared-back, 70s-poolside dressing with an emphasis on shape and form. So what about those stripes? For summer 2015, the familiar orientation of the horizontal stripe (often seen at this time of year in a boating top), has been turned on its head. In London, Matthew Miller presented a collection built around classic boardroom chalk stripes subverted into patchwork, jean jackets, and biker shapes. Pinstripe looks were also seen at Casely-Hayford, at Tiger of Sweden and scaled up as wide deckchair stripes at E Tautz. At Trusardi in Milan stripes came in gangster-ish zoot suits, while Gucci showed striped blazers, slim-striped pants and shirts, all bearing thick vertical lines (the latter paired with paint-splattered, worn-in blue jeans). Denim and pinstripe may sound like the most predictable of menswear fabrics but in the hands of the current generation of designers, the results are anything but obvious. In Milan, with denim being central to Prada's SS15 collection, the conversation around the fabric became official, as denim pieces with obvious topstitching (a signature of their leatherwear) created very deliberate outlines. While some are pondering whether this is Miuccia Prada's statement on "normcore" (the unisex trend of wearing unbranded, androgynous clothing as a back-handed style statement) the collection could be more simply described as pared-back, 70s-poolside dressing with an emphasis on shape and form. So what about those stripes? For summer 2015, the familiar orientation of the horizontal stripe (often seen at this time of year in a boating top), has been turned on its head. In London, Matthew Miller presented a collection built around classic boardroom chalk stripes subverted into patchwork, jean jackets, and biker shapes. Pinstripe looks were also seen at Casely-Hayford, at Tiger of Sweden and scaled up as wide deckchair stripes at E Tautz. At Trusardi in Milan stripes came in gangster-ish zoot suits, while Gucci showed striped blazers, slim-striped pants and shirts, all bearing thick vertical lines (the latter paired with paint-splattered, worn-in blue jeans). Denim and pinstripe may sound like the most predictable of menswear fabrics but in the hands of the current generation of designers, the results are anything but obvious.