Jamie's Comfort Food review – what does a dinner party have to do with comfort?

http://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2014/sep/02/jamies-comfort-food-review

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Comfort food. Isn't that something easy to make (like maybe you just open the packet or the tub), that you eat, alone on the sofa? It might have some kind of sentimental or nostalgic resonance (either personal or cultural), and it cheers you up. One possible downside is that it also makes you immensely fat.

Jamie's Comfort Food (Channel 4) is quite elaborate and is prepared and eaten outside in the sunshine, in Jamie's beautiful garden, with beautiful people, and a gaggle of beautiful geese. There's birdsong and an outside oven, even a picturesque old phone box. Who needs cheering up? It certainly ticks the fat box though – it would pretty much turn you into that sofa, I reckon.

First up: ultimate burgers, which are made with the aid of an affable North American named Christian who sucks on a beer and says "mange" for eat and "radiculousness", and is there mainly to agree with Jamie and to be called "bro" and to "bro" back, and to provide a broad shoulder to flop a casual arm around, bro-ly.

Their chuck steak burgers are encrusted with mustardy bark and smothered with sauces and relishes. There's red leicester, and bacon, and Jamie sponges up the excess fat with his brioche buns. God it looks good; comforting too, but what's it going to do to my buns, my baps, and my heart?

"It's all right to eat messy, yeah?" says Jamie, never a massive fan of the adverb. "You're supposed to eat messy," confirms Christian. "What are you, a wuss?" They chuckle as the juices dribble down their chins.

Jamie is a bit of a wuss when it comes to crustacean murder for his next dish. "If you're not confident of how to kill a lobster then ask your fishmonger for help," he says, probably not wanting the lobster rights people on his back. The ex-lobster is going into a mac'n'cheese. What happened to "macaroni cheese"? Mac'n'cheese sounds like a burger to me, even with lobster. It will, however, completely change any dinner party, says Jamie. What does a dinner party have to do with comfort? Anyway, this dish has three kinds of cheese: cheddar and gruyère plus parmesan for its ability "to season things gorgeous" says Jamie. Watch out mister, the Save The Adverb mob are coming to get you.

Finally a pavlova – "pav", inevitably. Made with marshmallow and love and a little help (licking, mainly) from young Buddy. Then delivered, with more love, and bubbly, to Jools and her mother, who are sitting among pink roses, radiant and backlit by the evening sun. "You're nearly my favourite son-in-law," purrs Jools's mum. Nearly? Ha. She's joking of course, he's Jamie frigging Oliver; he's every mother-in-law's favourite son-in-law. They'd devour him too if they could. They do, and we do. Comfort television.

I wonder whether a few specific people saw 21 Up: New Generation (BBC1) last night. The father of Ryan, for one, who was around, and then wasn't. He must have watched, out of curiosity if nothing else, to see how his boy's turning out. (Very well, I'd say.) John's father too, who was never around, and means nothing to John. Posh, ambitious Alexandra's boyfriend, who appears to mean very little to Alexandra, isn't a priority right now, as she decides what she's going to do with her life. And Asif's mum who won't be pleased about the direction in which her son's life is going – not just away from traditional Muslim family values, but maybe away from Glasgow too.

I'm certainly pleased I was watching. This is the (relatively) new one – Julian Farino's spin-off from Michael Apted's groundbreaking, bold and brilliant original. Less about class maybe, more about race and culture, a broader cross section, probably more relevant to Britain in the 21st century. It's not just about our country and our time; it's about these individuals. A good lot, I'd say, though I don't feel I know them well yet. A seven-year gap at this stage is such a massive part of those lives and they're barely the same people as last time out. Which is partly what makes it so fascinating.

There's been sadness already, mainly in the form of absent fathers. But no great disappointments, or triumphs, or love. Come on, they're only 21, that's all to come. It is incredibly moving already, though – another great big show about people and life. And a lot more real than any other so-called reality.