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Men's fashion: five things I learned at New York fashion week Men's fashion: five things I learned at New York fashion week
(8 months later)
One of the great things about New York retaining a small but well-formed core of talented young menswear designers is that trends have had time to soak. Another point of interest is that as its the last big showcase of menswear in the annual calendar, what the editors and buyers show up wearing to the shows is a good indication of what everyone else will want to be wearing next spring/summer (it's also most likely what will be in the shops). Here are the trends that cropped up on and off the catwalk. One of the great things about New York retaining a small but well-formed core of talented young menswear designers is that trends have had time to soak. Another point of interest is that as its the last big showcase of menswear in the annual calendar, what the editors and buyers show up wearing to the shows is a good indication of what everyone else will want to be wearing next spring/summer (it's also most likely what will be in the shops). Here are the trends that cropped up on and off the catwalk.
1. Minimal white trainers are de rigueur. As dictated by fashion editors, the Stan Smith (preferably the Raf Simons version), is the shoe of choice this week. However, credit must also be due to locals Common Projects, whose classic white low top sneaker is also very visible. The New York brand also collaborated with Robert Geller and Tim Coppens to produce shoes for their runway shows. As sports brands continue to load up layers of spongy foam and garish colour, the alternative is a simpler low top that, remarkably for a training shoe, looks better as it ages.1. Minimal white trainers are de rigueur. As dictated by fashion editors, the Stan Smith (preferably the Raf Simons version), is the shoe of choice this week. However, credit must also be due to locals Common Projects, whose classic white low top sneaker is also very visible. The New York brand also collaborated with Robert Geller and Tim Coppens to produce shoes for their runway shows. As sports brands continue to load up layers of spongy foam and garish colour, the alternative is a simpler low top that, remarkably for a training shoe, looks better as it ages.
2. Ian Brown holds a spectral presence over New York. Duckie Brown showed bucket hats on Thursday, inspired by the day-to-day uniform of designer Daniel Silver's 91-year-old father, but shown alongside sporty bombers and cagoules, and with a looped edit of Fool's Gold as the soundtrack, the look was reminiscent of Manchester's indie heyday. Remarkably, Brown also inspired a print at Tim Coppens, demonstrating that the 90s revival isn't just a British thing.2. Ian Brown holds a spectral presence over New York. Duckie Brown showed bucket hats on Thursday, inspired by the day-to-day uniform of designer Daniel Silver's 91-year-old father, but shown alongside sporty bombers and cagoules, and with a looped edit of Fool's Gold as the soundtrack, the look was reminiscent of Manchester's indie heyday. Remarkably, Brown also inspired a print at Tim Coppens, demonstrating that the 90s revival isn't just a British thing.
3. The future is black and white. Public School and Hood by Air, who used a limited colour palette to focus on detail and form, pushed the starkest of fashion contrasts to excess. This feels perfectly natural in New York where a white T-shirt, a perfect pair of black jeans and battered Vans can still define street style.3. The future is black and white. Public School and Hood by Air, who used a limited colour palette to focus on detail and form, pushed the starkest of fashion contrasts to excess. This feels perfectly natural in New York where a white T-shirt, a perfect pair of black jeans and battered Vans can still define street style.
4. Sportswear is still where it's at for next summer. Even the starchiest, suit-wearing of editors are opting for sneakers, and latex and other tech fabrics were also being celebrated across menswear shows from Tim Coppens, to Hood by Air, Public School and N. Hoolywood, the emphasis on practicality for urban living. N.Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana went so far as to say he was presenting clothes he himself wants to wear in the city, the shapes in his usually history-referencing collection now simple and functional, focusing on colour and detail. 5. New York loves a concept. From Robert Geller's pondering of the meaning of modern, to N.Hoolywood's veneration of natural forms and the vivid colours of insect life in his native Japan, to Thaddeus O'Neil's romantic presentation of surfers as 'hobos of the sea' (3D glasses were supplied), in art-loving New York, big ideas find a willing audience.4. Sportswear is still where it's at for next summer. Even the starchiest, suit-wearing of editors are opting for sneakers, and latex and other tech fabrics were also being celebrated across menswear shows from Tim Coppens, to Hood by Air, Public School and N. Hoolywood, the emphasis on practicality for urban living. N.Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana went so far as to say he was presenting clothes he himself wants to wear in the city, the shapes in his usually history-referencing collection now simple and functional, focusing on colour and detail. 5. New York loves a concept. From Robert Geller's pondering of the meaning of modern, to N.Hoolywood's veneration of natural forms and the vivid colours of insect life in his native Japan, to Thaddeus O'Neil's romantic presentation of surfers as 'hobos of the sea' (3D glasses were supplied), in art-loving New York, big ideas find a willing audience.