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Industrial plonk or ambrosial nectar? Beaujolais is both, and everything in between Industrial plonk or ambrosial nectar? Beaujolais is both, and everything in between
(about 4 hours later)
Beaujolais is a polarising word. Many of its detractors remember Beverly popping a bottle into the fridge in Mike Leigh’s Abigail’s Party, and so decided they didn’t like the entire region. People have a tendency to lump all of Beaujolais together, which is frankly silly. ‘Beaujolais’ is a very polarising word. Sadly, many of its detractors remember Beverly popping a bottle of Beaujolais into the fridge in Mike Leigh’s Abigail’s Party and subsequently decided they didn’t like the entire region. People have a tendency to lump all of Beaujolais together – which is frankly silly, given the size and diversity of the appellation.
The Beaujolais region straddles Burgundy and the Rhône. There are 10 villages, – such as Morgon and Fleurie – known as the Beaujolais crus, where wines are produced to a traditional style. The vast majority of its red wines are produced from the Gamay grape – naturally low in tannin and celebrated for its fruitiness. Most wines from Beaujolais present lovely expressions of fruit even in their youth. Beaujolais is a large region close to Lyon straddling Burgundy and the Rhone. There are 10 specific villages, known as the Beaujolais crus, where many wines are produced according to a traditional style of winemaking – among them villages such as Morgon and Fleurie. The vast majority of red wines for which the region is known are produced from the Gamay grape – naturally low in tannin and celebrated for its fruitiness. Most wines from Beaujolais present lovely expressions of fruit even in their youth.
In 1951, Beaujolais was authorized to be sold en primeur; just after completing its vinification. Quickly produced and fermented for just a few weeks, Beaujolais Nouveau soon came into being: a youthful, fruity wine for immediate drinking. It reflects the era in which it came into being. At the time, Europe was recovering from the Second World War and there was a need to celebrate life again. Beaujolais Nouveau became a symbol of the zeitgeist. After Beaujolais was authorised to be sold in 1951 en primeur (just after completing its vinification), Beaujolais Nouveau – a vin de primeur – soon came into being. Quickly produced and fermented for just a few weeks before its release, Beaujolais Nouveau is a youthful, fruity wine for immediate drinking.
Over the next few decades, Beaujolais Nouveau became more famous than Beaujolais itself. Some Beaujolais producers, such as Marcel Lapierre and Jean Foillard, became irritated that their beautifully complex wines were being tarred with the same brush as Nouveau and, in response started to produce some of the most interesting and respected wines in France. It reflects the era in which it came into being. Europe was emerging from the horrors of the Second World War and there was a cultural need to celebrate life again. Beaujolais Nouveau emerged as a symbol of the zeitgeist.
During his lifetime, Lapierre was one of the earliest advocates of natural wine and believed strongly in organic viticulture. Ironically, for many of us, Beaujolais evokes ideas of industrial production but it was in fact one of the first wine regions to embrace the expression of Mother Nature. Over the course of the next several decades, Beaujolais Nouveau became more famous than Beaujolais itself. Some producers in Beaujolais, like Marcel Lapierre and Jean Foillard, became increasingly irritated that their beautifully complex wines were being tarred with the same brush and, in response, began producing some of the most interesting and respected wines in France.
Beaujolais, then, has many faces and can certainly not be thought of in monolithic terms. Some are gorgeous; some are mass-produced nonsense. Can’t the same thing be said about nearly every aspect of life? During his lifetime, Marcel Lapierre was one of the earliest advocates of natural wine and believed strongly in organic viticulture. He was one of the first to point out the dangers of too much sulphur in a wine. Ironically, for many of us living today, Beaujolais evokes ideas of industrial production, but it was in fact one of the first wine regions to embrace the expression of Mother Nature through the soil and in the resulting wines.
Beaujolais Nouveau Day is on 20 November this year, but I’ll be enjoying other wines from Beaujolais, such as those below, right now and all year long. Because you don’t have to choose between the two extremes… It’s time to put the beau back into Beaujolais. Beaujolais, then, has many faces and can certainly not be thought of in monolithic terms. Some wines from the region are gorgeous; some are mass-produced nonsense. Can’t the same thing be said about nearly every aspect of life?
Beaujolais Nouveau will be released on 20 November this year and I’m already looking forward to the evening. But all year long (including right now!), I’ll be enjoying other wines from Beaujolais – such as those below. Because you don’t have to choose between the two extremes. It’s time to put the beau back into Beaujolais.
Fleurie Grand-Pre Domaine Lathuiliere Gravallon 2012 £12.25 corneyandbarrow.com
Fleurie Henry Fessy 2011, £13.50, oddbins.comFleurie Henry Fessy 2011, £13.50, oddbins.com
Brouilly Cuvée de Louis Tête 2012, £10.99, marksandspencer.comBrouilly Cuvée de Louis Tête 2012, £10.99, marksandspencer.com
Moulin-a-Vent Chateau du Moulin-a-Vent 2010, £19.95, uncorked.co.ukMoulin-a-Vent Chateau du Moulin-a-Vent 2010, £19.95, uncorked.co.uk
Morgon Côte de Py 2012 Jean Foillard £23.49, winelibrary.co.ukMorgon Côte de Py 2012 Jean Foillard £23.49, winelibrary.co.uk
Christian Holthausen is a Franco-American wine specialist living in London. Twitter @bosiechampagneChristian Holthausen is a Franco-American wine specialist living in London. Twitter @bosiechampagne