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Grim Luhansk wary of Ukraine's shaky truce | Grim Luhansk wary of Ukraine's shaky truce |
(about 3 hours later) | |
Luhansk is licking its wounds. After a long summer of bombardment by government forces, it is mourning its dead and slowly coming back to life. | |
But it is a grim, pessimistic place, full of hardship and queues. | |
Under a green tent, a quiet line of grateful citizens waits for a decent plate of food, courtesy of one the few soup kitchens operating across the city. | Under a green tent, a quiet line of grateful citizens waits for a decent plate of food, courtesy of one the few soup kitchens operating across the city. |
There is still no electricity or water in the city, so thousands of people depend on handouts. | |
Rebellious past | Rebellious past |
I find Anatoly Bukhalov sitting alone in the corner. When he finds out we're from Britain, he breaks into song, rattling off the chorus of Back in the USSR. | |
He used to sing Beatles covers with a college band, back in 1969. It nearly got him thrown out. | He used to sing Beatles covers with a college band, back in 1969. It nearly got him thrown out. |
His face lights up when he recalls his rebellious past, but when we talk about Luhansk today, he despairs. | His face lights up when he recalls his rebellious past, but when we talk about Luhansk today, he despairs. |
"Some say the fighting will start again tomorrow," he says. "That there will be bombing again. No-one is saying tomorrow will be better." | "Some say the fighting will start again tomorrow," he says. "That there will be bombing again. No-one is saying tomorrow will be better." |
Anatoly makes a point of thanking Vladimir Putin for coming to the city's help. A convoy of 220 trucks arrived in the city last weekend, carrying food and other humanitarian supplies. | Anatoly makes a point of thanking Vladimir Putin for coming to the city's help. A convoy of 220 trucks arrived in the city last weekend, carrying food and other humanitarian supplies. |
We find some of the aid being housed in an industrial warehouse. Boxes of bandages and tourniquets are piled high to the ceiling. | We find some of the aid being housed in an industrial warehouse. Boxes of bandages and tourniquets are piled high to the ceiling. |
With fighters and civilians all talking about further conflict, it's hard not to see supplies like this as part of their preparations. | With fighters and civilians all talking about further conflict, it's hard not to see supplies like this as part of their preparations. |
If a political agreement is not reached and the shaky ceasefire breaks down completely, Luhansk could be in for a repeat of the last few punishing weeks. | If a political agreement is not reached and the shaky ceasefire breaks down completely, Luhansk could be in for a repeat of the last few punishing weeks. |
For the most part, the city itself is not badly damaged, but weeks of fighting and government shelling have laid waste to some outlying areas. | For the most part, the city itself is not badly damaged, but weeks of fighting and government shelling have laid waste to some outlying areas. |
Vital lifeline | Vital lifeline |
In the village of Khryashchuvate there's barely a house intact. Many have been demolished entirely. Power lines are down, wrecked armoured vehicles are rusting under the trees and spent ammunition litters the ground. | In the village of Khryashchuvate there's barely a house intact. Many have been demolished entirely. Power lines are down, wrecked armoured vehicles are rusting under the trees and spent ammunition litters the ground. |
We arrive to find a water truck, and another line of patient people. During the fighting, those who could fled to nearby Russia. Those who stayed hid in their basements while shells fell all around. | We arrive to find a water truck, and another line of patient people. During the fighting, those who could fled to nearby Russia. Those who stayed hid in their basements while shells fell all around. |
The water truck started coming to the village just four days ago. For weeks it was simply too dangerous. Now, it's a vital lifeline. | The water truck started coming to the village just four days ago. For weeks it was simply too dangerous. Now, it's a vital lifeline. |
I meet Alexander, carrying buckets and bottles, making repeated round trips to this damaged house. He and his family only emerged from their shelter 10 days ago. | I meet Alexander, carrying buckets and bottles, making repeated round trips to this damaged house. He and his family only emerged from their shelter 10 days ago. |
"There was bombing for three weeks," he tells me. "Day and night. We were sitting in the basement all the time." | "There was bombing for three weeks," he tells me. "Day and night. We were sitting in the basement all the time." |
One shell destroyed his kitchen and damaged his roof. | One shell destroyed his kitchen and damaged his roof. |
He, too, thinks the fighting will start again, but he's not planning to leave. | |
On the steps down to his shelter sit two tin pails of home-grown tomatoes, and jam jars waiting to be filled. | On the steps down to his shelter sit two tin pails of home-grown tomatoes, and jam jars waiting to be filled. |
"We've experienced it already," he says of the fighting. "We're used to it, so we'll stay here." | |
As we leave and head south, we come across the bleak, twisted remains of a government armoured convoy, annihilated as it retreated from Luhansk two weeks ago. | As we leave and head south, we come across the bleak, twisted remains of a government armoured convoy, annihilated as it retreated from Luhansk two weeks ago. |
It's a terrifying scene of complete destruction. A dozen or more tanks, trucks and armoured personnel carriers ripped open and blown apart amid craters and bare, blackened tree trunks. | It's a terrifying scene of complete destruction. A dozen or more tanks, trucks and armoured personnel carriers ripped open and blown apart amid craters and bare, blackened tree trunks. |
This was ferocious work, involving more precise firepower than the rebels can possibly muster. It's possible Russian helicopters were involved. | This was ferocious work, involving more precise firepower than the rebels can possibly muster. It's possible Russian helicopters were involved. |
The grim place serves as a reminder that if the ceasefire collapses totally, Ukraine's powerful neighbour to the east is unlikely to stand by and watch. | The grim place serves as a reminder that if the ceasefire collapses totally, Ukraine's powerful neighbour to the east is unlikely to stand by and watch. |
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