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Max Mara gets nostalgic at Milan fashion week Max Mara gets nostalgic at Milan fashion week
(about 2 hours later)
This was, above all, a day of heightened national feeling. And while Italian catwalks may be some distance from Scotland's polling stations, fashion is never far from the zeitgeist. At Milan fashion week, Italian heritage and national pride were the themes of the day.This was, above all, a day of heightened national feeling. And while Italian catwalks may be some distance from Scotland's polling stations, fashion is never far from the zeitgeist. At Milan fashion week, Italian heritage and national pride were the themes of the day.
The country's economy may be in recession for the third time in five years, but its luxury fashion industry continues to buck the decline. Recent figures show a 4% rise in sales, largely due to healthy exports. As a result, the mood in Italian fashion is one of nostalgia.The country's economy may be in recession for the third time in five years, but its luxury fashion industry continues to buck the decline. Recent figures show a 4% rise in sales, largely due to healthy exports. As a result, the mood in Italian fashion is one of nostalgia.
There is a sense that designers wish to distance themselves from the general malaise and return to Italy's grander past. In Milan, the catwalks were an indulgent scrapbook of days gone by, more than a manifesto for the future.There is a sense that designers wish to distance themselves from the general malaise and return to Italy's grander past. In Milan, the catwalks were an indulgent scrapbook of days gone by, more than a manifesto for the future.
The Max Mara show was inspired by its 1971 advertising campaign starring Anjelica Huston, and by the 1970 film The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, starring Dominique Sanda.The Max Mara show was inspired by its 1971 advertising campaign starring Anjelica Huston, and by the 1970 film The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, starring Dominique Sanda.
The early-70s' risque-sophisticate haunts the Milan catwalk time and again. Something about the worldly glamour with an undercurrent of sex embodies this city's style – the photographer David Bailey once described Huston's beauty as "something dipped in darkness" . The early-70s' risque-sophisticate haunts the Milan catwalk time and again. Something about the worldly glamour with an undercurrent of sex embodies this city's style – the photographer David Bailey once described Huston's beauty as "something dipped in darkness".
Against a soundtrack of Serge Gainsbourg, Max Mara's georgette blouses were tucked into long skirts, which swished against knee-high boots. The shape was long and lean, though slightly loose, and there was a fuzzy, retro quality to the mostly black-and-white prints: soft stars, confetti, squiggles and abstract as well as Marimekko-style flowers. The Iconic collection echoed the mood at Gucci, where designer Frida Giannini's suede and safari chic ran in a similar groove.Against a soundtrack of Serge Gainsbourg, Max Mara's georgette blouses were tucked into long skirts, which swished against knee-high boots. The shape was long and lean, though slightly loose, and there was a fuzzy, retro quality to the mostly black-and-white prints: soft stars, confetti, squiggles and abstract as well as Marimekko-style flowers. The Iconic collection echoed the mood at Gucci, where designer Frida Giannini's suede and safari chic ran in a similar groove.
Fendi, which at 89 can claim a pedigree 26 years longer than Max Mara, has been led by Karl Lagerfeld since 1965. Yet Lagerfeld, a mastermind of brand identity, is careful to frame Fendi as an Italian house.Fendi, which at 89 can claim a pedigree 26 years longer than Max Mara, has been led by Karl Lagerfeld since 1965. Yet Lagerfeld, a mastermind of brand identity, is careful to frame Fendi as an Italian house.
For the set of the label's latest collection, he recreated the loggia of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, a Roman building commissioned by Benito Mussolini, which serves as Fendi's headquarters. The building is nicknamed the Square Colosseum, after the landmark on which it is based.For the set of the label's latest collection, he recreated the loggia of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, a Roman building commissioned by Benito Mussolini, which serves as Fendi's headquarters. The building is nicknamed the Square Colosseum, after the landmark on which it is based.
In text accompanying the show, Lagerfeld emphasised the classical roots of the building, although he appeared to make an oblique reference to its fascist origins when he declared: "The past and history here are now beyond good and evil, as Nietzsche would have said."In text accompanying the show, Lagerfeld emphasised the classical roots of the building, although he appeared to make an oblique reference to its fascist origins when he declared: "The past and history here are now beyond good and evil, as Nietzsche would have said."
Giorgio Armani, at 80, has begun to subtly rewrite his history. Having spent the 1980s owning beige, he is laying claim to blue. For the past decade, navy has been the dominant colour in his stores as well as his signature shade of T-shirt or sweater for public appearances.Giorgio Armani, at 80, has begun to subtly rewrite his history. Having spent the 1980s owning beige, he is laying claim to blue. For the past decade, navy has been the dominant colour in his stores as well as his signature shade of T-shirt or sweater for public appearances.
For his more casual Emporio Armani line this season, the designer lightened up, placing cornflower blue centre stage. The godfather of fashion minimalism is at his best when the central idea is simple and rigorous, as this collection's was: a chic, marina-based summer wardrobe of deck shoes, cotton dresses, long shorts and linen blazers, striped in blue and white.For his more casual Emporio Armani line this season, the designer lightened up, placing cornflower blue centre stage. The godfather of fashion minimalism is at his best when the central idea is simple and rigorous, as this collection's was: a chic, marina-based summer wardrobe of deck shoes, cotton dresses, long shorts and linen blazers, striped in blue and white.