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Stella McCartney celebrates gentle femininity at Paris fashion week Stella McCartney celebrates gentle femininity at Paris fashion week
(2 days later)
Strength and fragility were the competing themes at Stella McCartney’s Paris fashion week show. The British designer’s spring/summer 2015 collection used delicate fabrics and loose shapes to achieve the desired effect - with trapeze-cut silk slip dresses, wide tunics and slouchy trousers the ingredients.Strength and fragility were the competing themes at Stella McCartney’s Paris fashion week show. The British designer’s spring/summer 2015 collection used delicate fabrics and loose shapes to achieve the desired effect - with trapeze-cut silk slip dresses, wide tunics and slouchy trousers the ingredients.
The extensive collection played to McCartney’s strengths, ticking off the signatures she has become known for. The opening outfit, a crisp shirt tucked into wide-legged trousers, both in off-white, would have pleased devotees of her tailoring, while flimsy pastel gingham silk dresses will no doubt be worn by the coterie of McCartney women on the red carpet.The extensive collection played to McCartney’s strengths, ticking off the signatures she has become known for. The opening outfit, a crisp shirt tucked into wide-legged trousers, both in off-white, would have pleased devotees of her tailoring, while flimsy pastel gingham silk dresses will no doubt be worn by the coterie of McCartney women on the red carpet.
Other motifs included semi-circles cut out of tunics, tougher oversized buckles as straps on cocktail dresses, denim culottes and knitted coordinating skirts and sweaters in neutral colours. Reinventing the fashion wheel was not the point: here was a collection full of desirable clothes to own and wear.Other motifs included semi-circles cut out of tunics, tougher oversized buckles as straps on cocktail dresses, denim culottes and knitted coordinating skirts and sweaters in neutral colours. Reinventing the fashion wheel was not the point: here was a collection full of desirable clothes to own and wear.
In a packed backstage area after the show, the designer, dressed in a grey jumper, slouchy trousers and pointed patent flats, explained that the collection was about “welcoming the fragility of the woman, allowing her to have more softness”.In a packed backstage area after the show, the designer, dressed in a grey jumper, slouchy trousers and pointed patent flats, explained that the collection was about “welcoming the fragility of the woman, allowing her to have more softness”.
“Strength on its own in a woman is quite aggressive and not terribly attractive all the time,” McCartney said. “This collection is really celebrating the gentle side.” “Strength on its own in a woman is quite abrasive and not terribly attractive all the time,” McCartney said. “This collection is really celebrating the gentle side.”
Amal Alamuddin, the human rights lawyer who married the actor George Clooney this weekend, is the kind of woman such ideas appeal to. She wore a smart bespoke McCartney jumpsuit to the official ceremony on Monday.Amal Alamuddin, the human rights lawyer who married the actor George Clooney this weekend, is the kind of woman such ideas appeal to. She wore a smart bespoke McCartney jumpsuit to the official ceremony on Monday.
McCartney is an alumnus of the Chloe label founded by Gaby Aghion, who died this week aged 93. Such female-friendly sentiments – and clothes centred around movement and ease of wear – could be traced back to this influence. Aghion pioneered ready-to-wear for working women in postwar Paris; McCartney is continuing her good work for the 21st century.McCartney is an alumnus of the Chloe label founded by Gaby Aghion, who died this week aged 93. Such female-friendly sentiments – and clothes centred around movement and ease of wear – could be traced back to this influence. Aghion pioneered ready-to-wear for working women in postwar Paris; McCartney is continuing her good work for the 21st century.
Referencing the slouchy trousers that opened the show, McCartney said: “[I] liked that idea of comfort, when things are falling off your hip. Let them be worn by you rather than constraining you.”Referencing the slouchy trousers that opened the show, McCartney said: “[I] liked that idea of comfort, when things are falling off your hip. Let them be worn by you rather than constraining you.”
Discussing the collection’s patchworked prints, the designer explained she wanted “pieces you would almost collect over time and place together in an appliqué, embroidered manner.”Discussing the collection’s patchworked prints, the designer explained she wanted “pieces you would almost collect over time and place together in an appliqué, embroidered manner.”
This sentiment echoes across the spring/summer shows. Phoebe Philo of Céline and Luella Bartley of Marc by Marc Jacobs both namechecked found and borrowed items, praising the appeal of intriguing curiosities in a bright and shiny digital-dominated world.This sentiment echoes across the spring/summer shows. Phoebe Philo of Céline and Luella Bartley of Marc by Marc Jacobs both namechecked found and borrowed items, praising the appeal of intriguing curiosities in a bright and shiny digital-dominated world.
It was a theme at other Monday shows too. Sacai, the cult label designed by Chitose Abe, has long created clothes that fuse unlikely elements together. This season, military was mixed with lace and print, with chiffon breaking up heavy khaki on bomber jackets and the utilitarian feel of a shirt dress front juxtaposed against a navy lace back.It was a theme at other Monday shows too. Sacai, the cult label designed by Chitose Abe, has long created clothes that fuse unlikely elements together. This season, military was mixed with lace and print, with chiffon breaking up heavy khaki on bomber jackets and the utilitarian feel of a shirt dress front juxtaposed against a navy lace back.
Giambattista Valli used a montage of fabric feathers, brocade, sequin and embroidery on sweet shift dresses and longer gowns. The fact that Alamuddin chose to wear Valli for her first public appearance since her Saturday wedding points to a rising star.Giambattista Valli used a montage of fabric feathers, brocade, sequin and embroidery on sweet shift dresses and longer gowns. The fact that Alamuddin chose to wear Valli for her first public appearance since her Saturday wedding points to a rising star.
McCartney’s label, meanwhile, has a set of qualities similar to her collection: it trades on a lightness of spirit but is backed by steel. The company is majority owned by Kering, the luxury conglomerate that also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. While Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent is indisputably the group’s current commercial star, with revenue up 27% in the first quarter of 2014, McCartney’s brand is playing its part. Grouped with other smaller brands, such as Alexander McQueen, revenue was up 8% in the same period.McCartney’s label, meanwhile, has a set of qualities similar to her collection: it trades on a lightness of spirit but is backed by steel. The company is majority owned by Kering, the luxury conglomerate that also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. While Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent is indisputably the group’s current commercial star, with revenue up 27% in the first quarter of 2014, McCartney’s brand is playing its part. Grouped with other smaller brands, such as Alexander McQueen, revenue was up 8% in the same period.
• This article was amended on 1 October 2014. An earlier version incorrectly quoted Stella McCartney as using the word aggressive when describing her collection. This has been changed to abrasive.