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In a Gritty Hong Kong District, Protests Display a Populist Edge In a Gritty Hong Kong District, Demonstrators Show a Populist Edge
(about 14 hours later)
HONG KONG — Elaborately tattooed, adorned in rock-star jewelry and flaunting a shock of flamingo-pink hair, Chan Ming-fai usually sells plastic models of movie superheroes at his shop in Mong Kok, a teeming, neon-soaked part of Hong Kong. Now he volunteers as a helper at the protest camp here. HONG KONG — Elaborately tattooed, adorned in rock-star jewelry and flaunting a shock of flamingo-pink hair, Chan Ming-fai usually sells plastic models of movie superheroes at his shop in Mong Kok, a teeming, neon-soaked part of Hong Kong. Now he volunteers as a helper at the protest camp here.
He is not, he boasts, the stock profile of the pro-democracy demonstrators who have rattled this global financial capital for nearly two weeks. While the students leading the protest across the harbor cite theories of civil disobedience and quote Gandhi, Mr. Chan is apt to describe his anger with Beijing in terms of the latest Transformers movie, in which a benevolent China defends Hong Kong from evil metallic aliens. He is not, he boasts, the stock profile of the pro-democracy demonstrators who have rattled this global financial capital for nearly two weeks. While the students leading the protest across the harbor cite theories of civil disobedience and quote Gandhi, Mr. Chan is apt to describe his anger with Beijing in terms of the latest “Transformers” movie, in which a benevolent China defends Hong Kong from evil metallic aliens.
“The movie bowed to Beijing,” he said with disgust. “I love Transformers, but the last one I couldn’t stand.” “The movie bowed to Beijing,” he said with disgust. “I love ‘Transformers,’ but the last one I couldn’t stand.”
The face of Hong Kong’s pro-democracy movement most seen by the world has been a polite university student encamped near the city government headquarters, but the gritty, lower-class neighborhood of Mong Kok has become a mosh pit of more freewheeling protest, attracting a bigger proportion of workers, shopkeepers, artists, agitators and some outright oddballs.The face of Hong Kong’s pro-democracy movement most seen by the world has been a polite university student encamped near the city government headquarters, but the gritty, lower-class neighborhood of Mong Kok has become a mosh pit of more freewheeling protest, attracting a bigger proportion of workers, shopkeepers, artists, agitators and some outright oddballs.
Thrumming with boisterous indignation, Mong Kok reflects the movement’s appeal beyond the university-educated middle class and displays a diversity and combativeness that could be harder for the authorities to bring to heel, making it a key test of the movement’s staying power.Thrumming with boisterous indignation, Mong Kok reflects the movement’s appeal beyond the university-educated middle class and displays a diversity and combativeness that could be harder for the authorities to bring to heel, making it a key test of the movement’s staying power.
“It started out as a student-led movement,” Mr. Chan said. “But it’s now a people’s movement. We are not represented by anyone.”“It started out as a student-led movement,” Mr. Chan said. “But it’s now a people’s movement. We are not represented by anyone.”
While the Mong Kok sit-in has its share of undergraduate earnestness — someone has plastered posters quoting the political philosopher Hannah Arendt — it has also kindled a populist raucousness that will not be easily curbed, even if student leaders, now negotiating with the government, urge the protesters to withdraw.While the Mong Kok sit-in has its share of undergraduate earnestness — someone has plastered posters quoting the political philosopher Hannah Arendt — it has also kindled a populist raucousness that will not be easily curbed, even if student leaders, now negotiating with the government, urge the protesters to withdraw.
“It’s impossible to give up Mong Kok,” said Kevin Kwong, a 25-year-old Ph.D. student in philosophy at the Chinese University of Hong Kong. He had just woken up from a night sleeping on Nathan Road, a street usually thronged with shoppers. The protest encampment at the government center, in Hong Kong’s Admiralty section, is “under the control of protest groups,” he said. “In Mong Kok there are no leaders, and no groups.” “It’s impossible to give up Mong Kok,” said Kevin Kwong, a 25-year-old Ph.D. student in philosophy at the Chinese University of Hong Kong. He had just woken up from a night sleeping on Nathan Road, a street usually thronged with shoppers. The protest encampment at the government center, in Hong Kong’s Admiralty section, is “under the control of protest groups,” he said. “In Mong Kok, there are no leaders, and no groups.”
Irwin Mong, a hyperkinetic 38-year-old bass guitarist with the band Wonder Garl, known by his stage name, 762, said many of the Mong Kok protesters were jaded about politics but had been jolted onto the streets by the sight of the police firing tear gas and pepper spray at demonstrators who surrounded the city government offices on Sep. 28. Irwin Mong, a hyperkinetic 38-year-old bass guitarist with the band Wonder Garl, known by his stage name, 762, said many of the Mong Kok protesters were jaded about politics but had been jolted onto the streets by the sight of the police firing tear gas at demonstrators who surrounded the city government offices Sept. 28. Since then, a stretch of Nathan Road has been filled with residents who felt voiceless under Hong Kong’s leadership system. The city’s leader is appointed by the Chinese government, after a ballot of a committee of 1,200 members, dominated by the wealthy elite and political operatives beholden to Beijing.
Since then, a stretch of Nathan Road in Mong Kok has been filled with residents who felt voiceless under Hong Kong’s leadership system. The city’s leader is appointed by the Chinese government, after a ballot of a committee of 1,200 members, dominated by members of the wealthy elite and political operatives beholden to Beijing.
“We hate politics,” Mr. Mong said. “It’s not something you love, but it’s something you need to do. It’s like removing your cat’s poo.”“We hate politics,” Mr. Mong said. “It’s not something you love, but it’s something you need to do. It’s like removing your cat’s poo.”
The crowd has included students, gathered under tents and tarpaulins, and many others, often sporting defiantly flamboyant fashion. A regular visitor has been a volunteer defender who wears a full-face mask and wields a Captain America shield.The crowd has included students, gathered under tents and tarpaulins, and many others, often sporting defiantly flamboyant fashion. A regular visitor has been a volunteer defender who wears a full-face mask and wields a Captain America shield.
Andy Yung, a photogenic 30-year-old lifeguard, has also provided security for the student protesters, dressed like a speed skater in padded knee and elbow guards and a helmet. Andy Yung, a photogenic 30-year-old lifeguard, has also provided security for the protesters, dressed like a speedskater in padded knee and elbow guards and a helmet.
“I’m protecting the students, because they’re the ones who have the power over the government,” he said, between posing cheerfully for photographs with admirers. “If we don’t protect them, then society has no conscience.” “I’m protecting the students, because they’re the ones who have the power over the government,” he said between posing for photographs with admirers. “If we don’t protect them, then society has no conscience.”
Unlike most protesters, Mr. Mong, a.k.a. 762, said he did not focus his ire on 689, the dismissive nickname for Hong Kong’s leader, Leung Chun-ying, who won the job in 2012 with that many votes in the 1,200-member election committee.Unlike most protesters, Mr. Mong, a.k.a. 762, said he did not focus his ire on 689, the dismissive nickname for Hong Kong’s leader, Leung Chun-ying, who won the job in 2012 with that many votes in the 1,200-member election committee.
“He’s just a puppet,” Mr. Mong said. “I hate the system more.”“He’s just a puppet,” Mr. Mong said. “I hate the system more.”
Mong Kok, a warren of shops, restaurants, hotels and markets on the Kowloon side of the city, is often jammed with mainland Chinese visitors, who come to buy Swiss watches, jewelry and pharmaceutical products that are cheaper and less likely to be fake than those on the mainland, and baby formula less likely to be tainted with poison. For more than a few protesters, resentment of Chinese policies toward Hong Kong merged with antipathy toward the Chinese tourists, a sentiment that sometimes festered into bigotry.Mong Kok, a warren of shops, restaurants, hotels and markets on the Kowloon side of the city, is often jammed with mainland Chinese visitors, who come to buy Swiss watches, jewelry and pharmaceutical products that are cheaper and less likely to be fake than those on the mainland, and baby formula less likely to be tainted with poison. For more than a few protesters, resentment of Chinese policies toward Hong Kong merged with antipathy toward the Chinese tourists, a sentiment that sometimes festered into bigotry.
One of the world’s densest neighborhoods, on the north side of Victoria Harbor, Mong Kok is traditionally more culturally Cantonese and more working class than the skyscraper-encrusted Hong Kong Island on the south side. Sex is also for sale nearby, and even many Hong Kong people, used to intense crowds, find Mong Kok a trial.One of the world’s densest neighborhoods, on the north side of Victoria Harbor, Mong Kok is traditionally more culturally Cantonese and more working class than the skyscraper-encrusted Hong Kong Island on the south side. Sex is also for sale nearby, and even many Hong Kong people, used to intense crowds, find Mong Kok a trial.
Regina Ip, a pro-Beijing politician, speaking of the protests there, described it as “a very sleazy part of Hong Kong.”Regina Ip, a pro-Beijing politician, speaking of the protests there, described it as “a very sleazy part of Hong Kong.”
Protesters complained that big companies eager to attract mainland Chinese tourists and their demand for expensive bling had forced up rents, driving out shops for local residents. The two-block stretch of Nathan Road where the protesters have gathered has 48 jewelry and watch stores facing the street, not counting the many stores tucked away in arcades and on upper floors. Protesters complained that big companies eager to attract mainland Chinese tourists had forced up rents, driving out shops for local residents. The two-block stretch of Nathan Road where the protesters have gathered has 48 jewelry and watch stores facing the street, not counting the many stores tucked away in arcades and on upper floors.
“Hong Kong people come here less and less, because they think it’s for Chinese tourists,” said Stephen Sho, 25, a protester who recently graduated from the engineering program at Hong Kong Polytechnic University. “All the ordinary shops and small stuff has disappeared.”“Hong Kong people come here less and less, because they think it’s for Chinese tourists,” said Stephen Sho, 25, a protester who recently graduated from the engineering program at Hong Kong Polytechnic University. “All the ordinary shops and small stuff has disappeared.”
While the Admiralty site has been filled almost exclusively with protesters, in Mong Kok the demonstrators have encountered opposition from neighborhood residents. While the Admiralty site has been filled almost exclusively with protesters, the Mong Kok demonstrators have encountered opposition from neighborhood residents.
On Friday, dozens of middle-aged men, including some whom the police said belonged to criminal gangs known as triads, tore through the camp, punching and kicking protesters and tearing apart their tents and shelters. The mob pushed the remaining protesters back to a tent, until the police sent reinforcements and began hauling the attackers away. On Friday, dozens of middle-aged men, including some whom the police said belonged to criminal gangs known as triads, tore through the camp, punching and kicking protesters and tearing apart their tents and shelters, until the police sent reinforcements and began hauling the attackers away.
After that, the protesters returned and strengthened their own security with defenders like Captain America and Handsome Lifeguard.After that, the protesters returned and strengthened their own security with defenders like Captain America and Handsome Lifeguard.
The Mong Kok sit-in has also been the site of rare face-to-face debate between supporters and opponents. In the main tent, anyone can step up and give a two-minute speech broadcast over a loudspeaker. The area has resounded with noisy impromptu arguments, peppered with the earthy language that is a local specialty, usually between young protesters and their opponents, mostly older men. The Mong Kok sit-in has also been the site of rare face-to-face debate between supporters and opponents. In the main tent, anyone can step up and give a two-minute speech broadcast over a loudspeaker.
Wong Man-dun, 73, a retired hotel manager, took time out from heckling protesters to tell a reporter that he found the students spoiled and arrogant. “In America, I know, the government would get rid of them very quickly,” he said. “So why wait here? Get rid of them.”Wong Man-dun, 73, a retired hotel manager, took time out from heckling protesters to tell a reporter that he found the students spoiled and arrogant. “In America, I know, the government would get rid of them very quickly,” he said. “So why wait here? Get rid of them.”
Some female protesters said they have been sexually harassed and groped by protest opponents. “Lots of guys say nasty things to me,” said Kaitlyn Chan, a 17-year-old teahouse waitress with two cats tattooed on her shoulder who has been at the Mong Kok protests from the start. “I’m not happy, but I don’t respond. I have to show tolerance.”Some female protesters said they have been sexually harassed and groped by protest opponents. “Lots of guys say nasty things to me,” said Kaitlyn Chan, a 17-year-old teahouse waitress with two cats tattooed on her shoulder who has been at the Mong Kok protests from the start. “I’m not happy, but I don’t respond. I have to show tolerance.”
When quarrels threaten to escalate into fights, volunteer stewards now rush in to calm tempers, while the police keep watch. Protesters have also learned to drown out bellicose opponents by singing “Happy Birthday” in English. When quarrels threaten to escalate into fights, volunteer stewards now rush in to calm tempers while the police keep watch. Protesters have also learned to drown out bellicose opponents by singing “Happy Birthday” in English.
Most protesters at Mong Kok said they belonged to no organized protest group and boasted that they would be unlikely to leave, even if student leaders strike a deal with the government. Most protesters in Mong Kok said they belonged to no organized protest group and boasted that they would be unlikely to leave, even if student leaders strike a deal with the government.
Mr. Chan said he decided to join the protests after police arrested the 17-year-old student leader Joshua Wong. But now even if Mr. Wong called for protesters to leave the streets, Mr. Chan said he would stay put. Mr. Chan said he decided to join the protests after the police arrested the 17-year-old student leader Joshua Wong. But now, even if Mr. Wong called for protesters to leave the streets, Mr. Chan said he would stay put.
“I will not retreat until the government budges,” he said.“I will not retreat until the government budges,” he said.