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Nigel Slater’s fish cake recipes Nigel Slater’s fish cake recipes
(14 days later)
You could measure my life in fish cakes. Golden patties of crumbled fish and mashed potatoes, of herbs and crumbs, spices and spinach, flattened into patties and fried until crisp. Over the years there have been old-fashioned cakes of cod with calming parsley sauce; chilli-hot balls of prawn and lemongrass and flat cakes of spiced brown crab. I have rolled them in breadcrumbs, polenta or salt and pepper-flecked flour and offered them up with sauces of spinach, tomato, parsley or chilli.You could measure my life in fish cakes. Golden patties of crumbled fish and mashed potatoes, of herbs and crumbs, spices and spinach, flattened into patties and fried until crisp. Over the years there have been old-fashioned cakes of cod with calming parsley sauce; chilli-hot balls of prawn and lemongrass and flat cakes of spiced brown crab. I have rolled them in breadcrumbs, polenta or salt and pepper-flecked flour and offered them up with sauces of spinach, tomato, parsley or chilli.
But the cakes I like best are those made with smoked fish. I particularly remember one made from kippers that made a somewhat splendid Sunday breakfast. Mackerel, smoked on the bone until its blue-and-silver skin turns a rich burnished gold, makes a fine addition to a fish cake. The smoky flavours and soft textures within seem particularly right for autumn and winter eating.But the cakes I like best are those made with smoked fish. I particularly remember one made from kippers that made a somewhat splendid Sunday breakfast. Mackerel, smoked on the bone until its blue-and-silver skin turns a rich burnished gold, makes a fine addition to a fish cake. The smoky flavours and soft textures within seem particularly right for autumn and winter eating.
Horseradish, the traditional accompaniment of smoked eel, works well with smoked mackerel, too, and I grated some into this week’s fish cakes along with some coarsely shredded beetroot for sweetness. If ever there was a fish cake for a cold evening, this sweet, smoky version is it.Horseradish, the traditional accompaniment of smoked eel, works well with smoked mackerel, too, and I grated some into this week’s fish cakes along with some coarsely shredded beetroot for sweetness. If ever there was a fish cake for a cold evening, this sweet, smoky version is it.
A lighter, more vegetable-heavy version can be made with salmon and courgettes. I served these this week because of an overload of small squashes that came my way, grating them and squeezing out the excess juice first to create a fish cake that was quite open in texture and therefore light and crisp.A lighter, more vegetable-heavy version can be made with salmon and courgettes. I served these this week because of an overload of small squashes that came my way, grating them and squeezing out the excess juice first to create a fish cake that was quite open in texture and therefore light and crisp.
On the side, try a little sauce of yogurt, flecked with dill and parsley, or a dipping sauce of lemon, orange and lime juice mixed with a little olive oil or perhaps a small bowl of mayonnaise into which you have folded chopped tarragon, capers and a squeeze of lemon juice.On the side, try a little sauce of yogurt, flecked with dill and parsley, or a dipping sauce of lemon, orange and lime juice mixed with a little olive oil or perhaps a small bowl of mayonnaise into which you have folded chopped tarragon, capers and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Smoked mackerel fish cakesSmoked mackerel fish cakes
I prefer to use whole smoked mackerel for this, the flesh being more moist and thicker than the pre-packed fillets. But they have plenty of flavour, too, and come a close second.I prefer to use whole smoked mackerel for this, the flesh being more moist and thicker than the pre-packed fillets. But they have plenty of flavour, too, and come a close second.
Serves 3potatoes 500g, flourybutter 50gchives 4 tbsp, fresh, choppedsmoked mackerel 1, wholebeetroot 150g, cookedhorseradish 30g, grated root Serves 3potatoes 500g, flourybutter 50gchives 4 tbsp, fresh, choppedsmoked mackerel 1, wholebeetroot 150g, cooked horseradish 30g, grated root
Peel the potatoes, cut them into large chunks and cook them in boiling, generously salted water until tender. Depending on the variety of the potato, I start testing for doneness after 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and tip into the bowl of a food mixer.Peel the potatoes, cut them into large chunks and cook them in boiling, generously salted water until tender. Depending on the variety of the potato, I start testing for doneness after 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and tip into the bowl of a food mixer.
Coarsely grate the cooked beetroot and squeeze out any excess juice. You will need the beetroot to be fairly dry.Coarsely grate the cooked beetroot and squeeze out any excess juice. You will need the beetroot to be fairly dry.
Using a food mixer fitted with a flat beater attachment, beat the potatoes to a smooth fluffy mash with the butter, then add the chopped chives.Using a food mixer fitted with a flat beater attachment, beat the potatoes to a smooth fluffy mash with the butter, then add the chopped chives.
Slice the mackerel in half lengthways, removing the skin as you go, then remove the flesh from the bones in large flakes. Add the mackerel flesh to the potatoes, checking carefully for bones. Fold in the beetroot briefly, mixing just enough to incorporate the beets without making the mixture pink.Slice the mackerel in half lengthways, removing the skin as you go, then remove the flesh from the bones in large flakes. Add the mackerel flesh to the potatoes, checking carefully for bones. Fold in the beetroot briefly, mixing just enough to incorporate the beets without making the mixture pink.
Finely grate the horseradish root into the fish-cake mix, season with black pepper then shape into six small fish cakes. Set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes.Finely grate the horseradish root into the fish-cake mix, season with black pepper then shape into six small fish cakes. Set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Warm a thin layer of oil in a nonstick frying pan then add the butter and let it melt. Carefully lower the fish cakes into the pan and let them cook for 6-8 minutes until they have formed a golden crust on the underside. Do not move them during this initial cooking. Once they have formed a crust carefully turn each one over and cook the other side. Lift out with a palette knife, or fish slice, and serve.Warm a thin layer of oil in a nonstick frying pan then add the butter and let it melt. Carefully lower the fish cakes into the pan and let them cook for 6-8 minutes until they have formed a golden crust on the underside. Do not move them during this initial cooking. Once they have formed a crust carefully turn each one over and cook the other side. Lift out with a palette knife, or fish slice, and serve.
Courgette and salmon cakesCourgette and salmon cakes
It is worth the time it takes to salt the grated courgettes. If you don’t, you may find your cakes are too wet and won’t crisp appetisingly in the pan.It is worth the time it takes to salt the grated courgettes. If you don’t, you may find your cakes are too wet and won’t crisp appetisingly in the pan.
Serves 4potatoes 1kg, flourycourgettes 250gsalmon 450gspring onions 4oil and butter a little for fryingServes 4potatoes 1kg, flourycourgettes 250gsalmon 450gspring onions 4oil and butter a little for frying
Peel and slice the potatoes into large pieces, then boil in salted water until tender. Place the salmon on an oiled baking dish, season lightly and bake at 200C/gas mark 6 for 10-15 minutes, until it is just done.Peel and slice the potatoes into large pieces, then boil in salted water until tender. Place the salmon on an oiled baking dish, season lightly and bake at 200C/gas mark 6 for 10-15 minutes, until it is just done.
Coarsely grate the courgettes – ideally the same matchstick thickness as for a celeriac remoulade – place them in a colander set on a plate or dish and add a generous sprinkling of sea salt over the surface of the courgettes. Leave for 30 minutes until some of the juices have drained from them. Cut the spring onions into fine slices.Coarsely grate the courgettes – ideally the same matchstick thickness as for a celeriac remoulade – place them in a colander set on a plate or dish and add a generous sprinkling of sea salt over the surface of the courgettes. Leave for 30 minutes until some of the juices have drained from them. Cut the spring onions into fine slices.
Drain the potatoes thoroughly then mash smoothly with a potato masher or using a food mixer fitted with a flat beater attachment.Drain the potatoes thoroughly then mash smoothly with a potato masher or using a food mixer fitted with a flat beater attachment.
Squeeze the courgettes in your hand to remove any excess moisture. Using a little butter and oil, fry the courgettes, together with the chopped spring onions, until soft and golden, then fold into the potato. Gently fold in the fish, broken into large pieces, and check the seasoning.Squeeze the courgettes in your hand to remove any excess moisture. Using a little butter and oil, fry the courgettes, together with the chopped spring onions, until soft and golden, then fold into the potato. Gently fold in the fish, broken into large pieces, and check the seasoning.
Pat the mixture, using lightly floured hands if necessary, into six small cakes then set them aside in the fridge for 30 minutes.Pat the mixture, using lightly floured hands if necessary, into six small cakes then set them aside in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Warm the oil and butter in a shallow, nonstick pan then place the fish cakes into the pan and leave them to cook, without moving them, until they have formed a thin golden crust on the underside. Turn carefully with a palette knife and let them cook for a further few minutes until golden. Lift them out and serve.Warm the oil and butter in a shallow, nonstick pan then place the fish cakes into the pan and leave them to cook, without moving them, until they have formed a thin golden crust on the underside. Turn carefully with a palette knife and let them cook for a further few minutes until golden. Lift them out and serve.
Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlaterEmail Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater