An urbanist's guide to Bristol: 'Graffiti covers the city head to toe'
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Version 0 of 1. I’m Alec Saelens and, like many Bristol residents, I’m not originally from here, but I’ve grown to call this city in south-west England – named the European Green Capital for 2015 – home. I’m part of the Bristol Cable, a new citizen media co-operative that investigates uncovered issues and initiatives in the city while giving a voice to local people. The production and distribution of the Bristol Cable’s first edition has provided me with an exciting discovery of many aspects of this city. My day job as a waiter, the one that pays the rent, isn’t nearly as stimulating, but it helps me to get by. It’s 3pm and I’m on my regular route to work. Cycling always gives me a new insight into the character of different neighbourhoods. I leave my area of Easton, an area populated by a mix of people: families who have lived here for generations, others from recent waves of immigration, newly arrived young graduates seeking cheap rents. At a crossroad that beautifully reflects the area, I pass a Sikh gurdwara, a community centre, a mosque, supported housing for single mums, and a pub. Away from Stapleton Road, a local high street lined with delicious Somali cafes, I enter the predominantly Afro-Caribbean area of St Pauls. The thriving Malcolm X community centre stands aside tall houses that belonged to merchants at the height of the slave trade. Up the road I reach the artistic and alternative scene of Stokes Croft, with its cafes, squats and art studios. The area is definitely struggling to maintain its identity as a hotbed of political, cultural and artistic radicalism as corporate redevelopers try to move in. Next, I pass quickly through Broadmead, with its sprawling shopping and entertainment venues, and eventually reach the redeveloped Harbourside in the city centre – no longer a commercial dockside, but a great place for an evening stroll and drink of cider. Best building The Trinity Centre stands out. Housed in a converted church given to the community by the Church of England, one can always expect to find a range of high quality arts, culture and community events here. From local radical histories to all-night dub raves, international acts, markets, anarchist bookfairs and over-50s lunches, the Trinity represents a lot of what’s good about Bristol: a mix of hedonism and people, with a good dose of grounded discussion and action. Along with Trinity, there are many other churches in Bristol that now serve purposes other than worship, including Circomedia Circus School and St Werburghs Climbing Centre. Worst building I nominate Colston Tower, which looms over the centre. Why this particular 1960s high-rise among all the others? It’s in the name as much as in the aesthetic. The block is named after Edward Colston, the Bristol-born merchant and MP who acquired his wealth through the trade and exploitation of slaves. Perhaps this ugly office block, with the words Colston Tower in massive neon letters, is a fitting architectural legacy for a man whose pockets were lined by the slave trade. How clean is the city? Depends where you are, and at what time! Bristol is generally clean, but if you venture out early or are still up in Stokes Croft on a Sunday morning you might have to wade through beer cans and cider bottles alongside the Sunday churchgoers. A very bizarre scene, no doubt. Made famous by Banksy but certainly not started by him, Bristol’s graffiti covers the city head to toe, most of it brilliant street art. If you’re in Bristol and you don’t see the tag CNTS everywhere, you haven’t got out enough! What’s the best way to get around? Cycling or walking are far preferable in this medium-sized city. It’s easier to weave the fastest and picturesque way through intimate backstreets or pedestrian paths. Keen to cultivate its green reputation, Bristol is making progress on developing biking infrastructure, though a lot of work remains. I don’t envy those waiting for the bus. And as the biggest city in the south-west, Bristol attracts a lot of car commuters from surrounding counties. Seeing the traffic jams in the morning, you’re constantly reminded that automobiles aren’t the most efficient way to get around and that Bristol is one of the most highly traffic congested cities in England. What does your city sound like? The melodies of tunnel buskers revisiting Jacque Brel on a gypsy groove, or Moussa the kora player serenading the Harbourside. Bristol breeds its own very best musicians and promotes them well; the quality is always high, and entrance is usually cheap. Venues have weekly nights promoting a wide range of music; notorious for pioneering dub culture, there are free parties around if you’re prepared to dig. Best place for a conversation I’m not going to give away my favourite pub, but I will tell you about Tovey’s fishmonger, the best fish store in town. With the smell of fresh Cornish fish floating down the Stapleton road, it’s not exactly a place you might expect to stick about for a conversation – but this gem attracts all sorts, from students to your gran to the neighbour you’ve never spoken to. You’re sure to leave with good stories as well as produce. It’s set like a stage, with one of the family fishmongers standing in the middle of the floor and flanked by fresh fish on all sides. Customers are treated to a show of filleting accompanied by talks about the latest news, family history, gossip and the best recipes. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve ended up chatting to people in the queue about local happenings for way longer than you should spend in a potent-smelling fish shop. Disclaimer: make sure you’re quick on the mark, because these gents are infamous for their quips and banter. What one thing is indispensable for life in your city? I’m obviously going to say pick up a copy of the Bristol Cable. But for the latest on scandals and abuses of power, get the controversial satirical sheet the Bristolian. And for intriguing local histories, check out publications and events by the Bristol Radical History Group, a lot of which is hosted at Hydra Books shop. Are you optimistic about your city’s future? Bristol is making a lot of noise on the international stage, and rightly so. It has been named European Green Capital for 2015, it has its own local currency (the Bristol pound) and an obsession with localism, from independent shops to a co-operatively owned ferry service. But I’m worried that many Bristolians will not rise with the tide of this much-heralded progress. It’s clear that this is a divided metropolis: one stark example is the seven-year disparity in life expectancy between different neighbourhoods. In what is an all-too-familiar story, rising rent and gentrification are shifting some populations further afield. All that said, there’s such great potential for Bristol: the challenge is to make sure that the gains are felt by all Bristolians. |