Cold remedies: Yotam Ottolenghi’s warming winter broth recipes

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/jan/16/winter-broth-recipes-yotam-ottolenghi

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I never mastered consommé during my short time at a French culinary school, way back when. This failure still stands out in my mind not so much because of the magnitude of the letdown – there were plenty of others – but because this skill, unlike turning mushrooms, spinning sugar or setting crab in aspic, was one I wanted to acquire. A good consommé has a depth and clarity of flavour that is hard to beat.

Being an impatient and slightly chaotic sort, I’m resigned to the fact that I am not destined to master any French creation involving such a fussy process. But I still think a good broth featuring various other delicious, well-matched ingredients, is the best possible food for the soul on a glum winter evening. Here are some of my favourites.

Turkey meatballs and kale in lemon broth

Dried Iranian limes are a distinctive ingredient that spread their wonderfully unique sharp and sweetly aromatic flavour throughout any stew or soup: get them from Middle Eastern grocers or online. (There’s really no alternative here.) The flavour of the broth and the texture of the meatballs improves if the soup is set aside for an hour or two after removing the limes and before adding the kale and lemon juice, which should go in only at the very last minute. Serves four to six.

500g turkey thigh (or breast) mince30g fresh white breadcrumbs3 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped15g parsley, picked and finely chopped10g tarragon, picked and finely chopped1 tsp ground allspiceSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 tbsp vegetable oil250g kale, thick stalks discarded, leaves cut widthways into 5cm strips 1 litre unsalted chicken stock10 prunes1 tsp allspice berries10 cardamom pods6 star anise1 lemon, rind shaved into long, thin strips, plus 2½ tbsp lemon juice2 dried Iranian limes, pierced a few times or lightly bashed with a rolling pin480g cooked chickpeas (or 2 cans), rinsed and drained

Combine the first six ingredients in a large bowl with a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, then roll into 4cm wide balls, weighing about 30g each: you should have about 20. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Add the oil to a large frying pan and put on a medium-high heat. Once hot, fry the meatballs for seven to eight minutes, turning them throughout so they go golden-brown on all sides, then transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper.

Fill a large saucepan with salted water and bring to a boil. Add the kale, blanch for two minutes, drain, refresh, drain again and set aside.

Return the saucepan to a medium-high heat and pour in the stock and a litre of water. Add the prunes, allspice, cardamom, star anise, lemon rind, Iranian limes and half a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to medium and simmer gently for 30-35 minutes, until the liquid has reduced by half. Press the dried limes and prunes with the back of a spoon, to help release their flavour, then strain into a large bowl and discard the prunes, spices, lemon rind and limes. Return the stock to the pan, add the chickpeas and meatballs, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice and kale, stir for a couple of minutes, to warm the kale through, and serve at once.

Yemeni oxtail soup

Zhoug is the fiery national chilli paste of Israel, even though it originates in Yemen. You can make your own by blitzing 45g picked coriander with two hot green chillies, half a teaspoon of ground cumin, a quarter-teaspoon each of ground cardamom and cloves, a pinch of salt, a crushed garlic clove and two tablespoons each of olive oil and water – this will give you enough for one small jar. Failing that, serve the soup with a good commercial savoury chilli sauce. Either way, crusty white bread is a must with this. Serves four to six.

1.5kg oxtail, cut up on the bone (ideally pieces with a fair amount of meat)Salt and black pepper3 tbsp olive oil2 bay leaves40g bunch parsley40g bunch coriander90g tomato paste2 tsp each ground coriander, cumin and cardamom½ tsp ground turmeric400g chopped tomatoes (1 tin or fresh)20 garlic cloves, peeled2 large waxy potatoes, peeled and chopped into 2cm chunks2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 5cm chunks1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into 5cm wedges3 large sticks celery, trimmed and sliced into 5cm chunks1 tsp caster sugar3 tbsp lemon juice

To serveZhoug or bought chilli sauce (see introduction; optional)1 lemon, cut into wedges

Mix the oxtail pieces in a medium bowl with half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Put an extra-large saucepan (for which you have a lid) on a medium-high heat and add two tablespoons of the oil. Once hot, add the oxtail in batches, searing it for four to five minutes and turning often, so it gets nicely coloured all over. Remove from the pan and repeat with the remaining oxtail. Once all the meat is browned, return all the oxtail to the pan, along with any cooking juices, and pour over 1.8 litres of water. Cover, lower the heat to medium and simmer for an hour and a half, skimming any impurities off the surface.

Tie together the bay leaves, parsley and coriander with string and add to the stew. Cover again and simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring every now and then.

Put a small frying pan on a medium-high heat with the remaining tablespoon of oil and, once hot, add the tomato paste and spices. Cook for two minutes, stirring constantly, then add to the soup with the tomatoes, garlic, potatoes, carrots, onion, celery, sugar, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Cover and simmer for a final hour, stirring once in a while, until the meat is falling apart and the vegetables are soft; the soup needn’t be very thick, just flavoursome and hearty. Lift out and discard the herb bundle and stir in the lemon juice. Serve at once with a good teaspoon of zhoug sprinkled over each portion and a wedge of lemon alongside.

Spicy freekeh and butterbean soup

If you can’t find ancho chilli, up the Aleppo chilli to two teaspoons; and if you can’t get either, use a teaspoon of dried chilli flakes. Serves six.

1 lemon, rind shaved off in long strips, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice15g fresh thyme sprigs15g fresh tarragon sprigs50g fresh parsley sprigs2 tbsp olive oil1 medium onion, peeled and roughly chopped1 tsp each ground cumin, paprika, allspice and ginger1 tsp Aleppo chilli flakes2 tbsp tomato paste1 tin tomatoes, chopped 1 dried ancho chilli, torn open2 tsp caster sugar1.5 litres vegetable stock400g tin butter beans, drained and rinsed (240g net weight)100g cracked freekeh, rinsedSalt15g coriander leaves, chopped (optional)200g soured cream (optional)

Tie the lemon rind, thyme, tarragon and parsley with string. Put a large pan (for which you have a lid) on a medium-high heat. Add the oil and fry the onion for eight to 10 minutes, stirring once in a while, until soft and caramelised. Add the cumin, paprika, allspice, ginger and chilli flakes, and fry for a minute, stirring, until fragrant. Add the tomato paste, cook for a minute, then tip in the tomatoes, ancho chilli, sugar, stock, beans and freekeh. Add the herb and lemon bundle and a teaspoon and a half of salt, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cover.

Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring now and then, until the freekeh is soft and the liquid has thickened slightly. Lift out and discard the herbs and ancho chilli, and stir in the lemon juice. Serve piping hot with a dollop of soured cream and a sprinkle of coriander, if using.

• Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.

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