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| Mallorca holiday guide: what to see plus the best bars, restaurants and hotels | Mallorca holiday guide: what to see plus the best bars, restaurants and hotels |
| (11 days later) | |
| Hammering the hills on a road bike, spending a lazy afternoon eating and drinking on a vine-strewn terrace, snorkelling in clear-watered coves, ambling around sunny streets full of shops, markets and galleries … If any – or all – of these sound like your kind of thing, Mallorca could be the spring/summer holiday island for you. | Hammering the hills on a road bike, spending a lazy afternoon eating and drinking on a vine-strewn terrace, snorkelling in clear-watered coves, ambling around sunny streets full of shops, markets and galleries … If any – or all – of these sound like your kind of thing, Mallorca could be the spring/summer holiday island for you. |
| To start with, let’s hit the sand. The 340-mile coastline boasts more than 200 beaches. Those in the south, including Es Trenc and Cala Llombards, tend to be swathes of soft white lapped by turquoise sea; the north has sweeps of golden sand and shallow waters, such as Playa de Muro, spotlessly clean and ideal for families. | To start with, let’s hit the sand. The 340-mile coastline boasts more than 200 beaches. Those in the south, including Es Trenc and Cala Llombards, tend to be swathes of soft white lapped by turquoise sea; the north has sweeps of golden sand and shallow waters, such as Playa de Muro, spotlessly clean and ideal for families. |
| The most spectacular stretch of Mallorcan coast though, is the one with fewest beaches. On the far side of the Tramuntana mountain range, the wild and rocky west coast offers stunning drives along clifftops through some of the island’s prettiest villages and resorts – Valldemossa, Deià, Sóller and Fornalutx. All are worth a lunch stop at least, and zigzag roads lead down to secluded pebbly coves such as Cala Tuent. Next door is Sa Calobra, a stunning cove reached through a series of cave tunnels. Those who go early in the day are rewarded with a stunning swim, with only a few folks who’ve leapt in off their yachts for company. | The most spectacular stretch of Mallorcan coast though, is the one with fewest beaches. On the far side of the Tramuntana mountain range, the wild and rocky west coast offers stunning drives along clifftops through some of the island’s prettiest villages and resorts – Valldemossa, Deià, Sóller and Fornalutx. All are worth a lunch stop at least, and zigzag roads lead down to secluded pebbly coves such as Cala Tuent. Next door is Sa Calobra, a stunning cove reached through a series of cave tunnels. Those who go early in the day are rewarded with a stunning swim, with only a few folks who’ve leapt in off their yachts for company. |
| The island is a fantastic option for cyclists, particularly in the cooler months when professionals come to train on steep hills in a mild climate, and enjoy some of the best road-riding in Europe. For walkers, footpaths weave between orange groves, hillside mansions, coves and peaks, so there’s never a dull stretch. Even in the height of summer, Mallorca’s rural centre remains quiet and is dotted with vineyards, tiny villages and farmhouses, or fincas, some converted into rustic retreats and excellent restaurants. | The island is a fantastic option for cyclists, particularly in the cooler months when professionals come to train on steep hills in a mild climate, and enjoy some of the best road-riding in Europe. For walkers, footpaths weave between orange groves, hillside mansions, coves and peaks, so there’s never a dull stretch. Even in the height of summer, Mallorca’s rural centre remains quiet and is dotted with vineyards, tiny villages and farmhouses, or fincas, some converted into rustic retreats and excellent restaurants. |
| The capital, Palma, is no longer just a gateway for beach holidays, it’s a destination in its own right, with enough cultural, historic and gastronomic delights in its compact centre to keep you busy for a day or two. | The capital, Palma, is no longer just a gateway for beach holidays, it’s a destination in its own right, with enough cultural, historic and gastronomic delights in its compact centre to keep you busy for a day or two. |
| There’s tons of loveliness on offer in Mallorca. But if you’re thinking about that fleshpot resort of ill repute, that starts with M and ends in F, don’t. It really is irrelevant to your holiday here. | There’s tons of loveliness on offer in Mallorca. But if you’re thinking about that fleshpot resort of ill repute, that starts with M and ends in F, don’t. It really is irrelevant to your holiday here. |
| What to do | What to do |
| Hire a bike | Hire a bike |
| Pick up your wheels in Palma and hit the flat, 10-mile cycle path to S’Arenal, passing the city’s magnificent Gothic cathedral, the cafe-lined seafront of Portixol (a good spot for refuelling) and the up-and-coming beach resort of Cuidad Jardín. At the end of the route is S’Arenal (high-rise hotels, tacky souvenir shops, package Mallorca at its worst), so turnaround and pedal back to the cultural capital.• Palma on Bike from €14 a day, +34 971 718062, palmaonbike.com | Pick up your wheels in Palma and hit the flat, 10-mile cycle path to S’Arenal, passing the city’s magnificent Gothic cathedral, the cafe-lined seafront of Portixol (a good spot for refuelling) and the up-and-coming beach resort of Cuidad Jardín. At the end of the route is S’Arenal (high-rise hotels, tacky souvenir shops, package Mallorca at its worst), so turnaround and pedal back to the cultural capital.• Palma on Bike from €14 a day, +34 971 718062, palmaonbike.com |
| Related: Autumn in Mallorca: the perfect weekend break | Related: Autumn in Mallorca: the perfect weekend break |
| Walk the Victoria peninsulaEscape the crowds of Alcúdia and Puerto de Pollensa by walking this well-signed seven-mile route along the southern arm of Pollensa bay. It’s signposted from Bar S’illot (see below), and takes you past the Ermita, an early 15th-century hermitage, and up to the 445-metre Talaia d’Alcúdia peak for panoramic views to Alcúdia bay in the south, and north across Pollensa bay to the Formentor peninsula. After a slightly tricky descent (not good for vertigo sufferers), wind your way back down through quiet countryside, where you’ll probably see more Balearic goats than fellow walkers. If you have time, take a detour to stunning Platja d’es Coll Baix beach. | Walk the Victoria peninsulaEscape the crowds of Alcúdia and Puerto de Pollensa by walking this well-signed seven-mile route along the southern arm of Pollensa bay. It’s signposted from Bar S’illot (see below), and takes you past the Ermita, an early 15th-century hermitage, and up to the 445-metre Talaia d’Alcúdia peak for panoramic views to Alcúdia bay in the south, and north across Pollensa bay to the Formentor peninsula. After a slightly tricky descent (not good for vertigo sufferers), wind your way back down through quiet countryside, where you’ll probably see more Balearic goats than fellow walkers. If you have time, take a detour to stunning Platja d’es Coll Baix beach. |
| Browse a weekly marketIf you only do one of Mallorca’s wonderful weekly markets, make it Sineu (Wednesdays). You get all the usual leather, lace, fruit, olives and strings of chilli peppers, but it’s also the only market that still trades livestock. Get here early (8am) and you’ll see locals haggling over piglets, lambs, chickens and rabbits. Later on there are pony rides and street entertainment. For more modern shopping, Palma has plenty of chic shops: Rialto Living is a cool concept store with fashion and furniture, plus a cafe and gallery. | Browse a weekly marketIf you only do one of Mallorca’s wonderful weekly markets, make it Sineu (Wednesdays). You get all the usual leather, lace, fruit, olives and strings of chilli peppers, but it’s also the only market that still trades livestock. Get here early (8am) and you’ll see locals haggling over piglets, lambs, chickens and rabbits. Later on there are pony rides and street entertainment. For more modern shopping, Palma has plenty of chic shops: Rialto Living is a cool concept store with fashion and furniture, plus a cafe and gallery. |
| Don’t miss …Climbing the 365 steps from Pollensa’s old town to the tiny 18th-century chapel, Oratori del Calvari, for stunning views. Some pilgrims do it on their knees! | Don’t miss …Climbing the 365 steps from Pollensa’s old town to the tiny 18th-century chapel, Oratori del Calvari, for stunning views. Some pilgrims do it on their knees! |
| Hidden gems…Watching the sunset at Sa Foradada, a five-minute drive from Deia then a 45-minute hike down. In Palma, in September, 40 galleries host a La Nit de l’Art, a nocturnal art festival, which includes Joan Miró’s studio. | Hidden gems…Watching the sunset at Sa Foradada, a five-minute drive from Deia then a 45-minute hike down. In Palma, in September, 40 galleries host a La Nit de l’Art, a nocturnal art festival, which includes Joan Miró’s studio. |
| Where to eat | Where to eat |
| Simply Fosh, Palma | Simply Fosh, Palma |
| In a 17th-century building in the heart of the old town, Marc Fosh’s Mediterranean brasserie has a Michelin star. The three-course lunch menu, featuring the likes of yellow gazpacho with marinated salmon, and cuttlefish with seafood rice, is an affordable €23.50.• Carrer de la Missió, 7A, +34 971 720114, simplyfosh.com | In a 17th-century building in the heart of the old town, Marc Fosh’s Mediterranean brasserie has a Michelin star. The three-course lunch menu, featuring the likes of yellow gazpacho with marinated salmon, and cuttlefish with seafood rice, is an affordable €23.50.• Carrer de la Missió, 7A, +34 971 720114, simplyfosh.com |
| Related: 10 of the best restaurants in Palma de Mallorca – on a budget | Related: 10 of the best restaurants in Palma de Mallorca – on a budget |
| La Bóveda, PalmaPalma is not short of good tapas restaurants, but this one stands out. It’s sister to the well-known Taberna de la Bóveda, just round the corner, and slightly easier to reserve a table. The menu is vast but the silver-haired waiters (always a sign of a good establishment) know what to recommend. Tuck into sumptuous garlic prawns, fish croquettes, stuffed peppers, dates wrapped in bacon, and pa amb oli (Mallorca’s answer to bruschetta) in a great atmosphere. • Carrer Botería 3, +34 971 714863, facebook.com/La-Boveda, tapas €8 | |
| Antic Celler Son Toreó, SineuThe oldest restaurant in Sineu, in a building dating from the early 12th century, Son Toreó is worth the trip to the centre of the island. The family-run restaurant was closed 37 years ago due to laws prohibiting cooking with gas underground, but was reopened by the fourth generation of the Fuster family 10 years ago. It now cooks the Mallorcan meat specialities – steaks, chicken and rabbit – on a wood fire, giving them a lovely flavour. Portions are generous, but save room for the almond nougat mousse.• Plaça es fossar 3, +34 649 477955, facebook.com/Antic-Celler-Son-Toreó, mains around €12 | Antic Celler Son Toreó, SineuThe oldest restaurant in Sineu, in a building dating from the early 12th century, Son Toreó is worth the trip to the centre of the island. The family-run restaurant was closed 37 years ago due to laws prohibiting cooking with gas underground, but was reopened by the fourth generation of the Fuster family 10 years ago. It now cooks the Mallorcan meat specialities – steaks, chicken and rabbit – on a wood fire, giving them a lovely flavour. Portions are generous, but save room for the almond nougat mousse.• Plaça es fossar 3, +34 649 477955, facebook.com/Antic-Celler-Son-Toreó, mains around €12 |
| Es Verger, Alaró | Es Verger, Alaró |
| Locals were a bit peeved when Rick Stein came here and told the world he’d had the best lamb he’d ever tasted. Since then, many more people have braved the hairpin bends and dirt track to this rustic farm restaurant half-way up Alaró mountain, known to British expats as “the lamb restaurant”. It serves simple Mallorcan food, but you’re best off following Rick and going for the paletilla de cordero, shoulder of lamb slow-cooked in its no-longer-so-secret ingredient, San Miguel beer. Booking is essential. • Camí des Castell, +34 971 182126, mains from €8 | Locals were a bit peeved when Rick Stein came here and told the world he’d had the best lamb he’d ever tasted. Since then, many more people have braved the hairpin bends and dirt track to this rustic farm restaurant half-way up Alaró mountain, known to British expats as “the lamb restaurant”. It serves simple Mallorcan food, but you’re best off following Rick and going for the paletilla de cordero, shoulder of lamb slow-cooked in its no-longer-so-secret ingredient, San Miguel beer. Booking is essential. • Camí des Castell, +34 971 182126, mains from €8 |
| Related: Top 10 beaches in the Balearics | Related: Top 10 beaches in the Balearics |
| Ca N’Antuna, FornalutxReserve a table on the vine-covered terrace at this popular restaurant, with views across the village and the lush valley to the Tramuntana mountains. Of the handful of restaurants in Fornalutx, this one stands out for its filling Mallorcan dishes, including roast suckling pig and roast lamb. If you can’t get a table on the terrace, try Es Turo just up the road for a similar experience.• Calle Arbona Colom 14, +34 971 633068, mains around €15 | Ca N’Antuna, FornalutxReserve a table on the vine-covered terrace at this popular restaurant, with views across the village and the lush valley to the Tramuntana mountains. Of the handful of restaurants in Fornalutx, this one stands out for its filling Mallorcan dishes, including roast suckling pig and roast lamb. If you can’t get a table on the terrace, try Es Turo just up the road for a similar experience.• Calle Arbona Colom 14, +34 971 633068, mains around €15 |
| Café C’an Moixet, PollensaDon’t be put off by the rather shabby exterior of this tapas bar in Pollensa’s main square. It may not look as appealing as the other restaurants in this prime people-watching spot, but the atmosphere is buzzy, the tapas excellent and prices low. It’s a popular spot for morning coffees and pastries, especially on Sunday (market day), and it does a mean mojito, too (€4.80).• Plaça Major 2, +34 971 534214, tapas around €6 | Café C’an Moixet, PollensaDon’t be put off by the rather shabby exterior of this tapas bar in Pollensa’s main square. It may not look as appealing as the other restaurants in this prime people-watching spot, but the atmosphere is buzzy, the tapas excellent and prices low. It’s a popular spot for morning coffees and pastries, especially on Sunday (market day), and it does a mean mojito, too (€4.80).• Plaça Major 2, +34 971 534214, tapas around €6 |
| You must try …The delicious ensaïmada pastry, made from light-as-air sugar-dusted layers is particular to the island and once you’ve tasted one you’ll quite likely be trying them daily. | You must try …The delicious ensaïmada pastry, made from light-as-air sugar-dusted layers is particular to the island and once you’ve tasted one you’ll quite likely be trying them daily. |
| Where to drink | Where to drink |
| Sky Bar, Palma | Sky Bar, Palma |
| Hostal Cuba, already home to one of Palma’s top bars and nightclubs, now has the added attraction of the Sky Bar, which overlooks the bay and the old town – a great place for a sunset cocktail. The colonial-style hotel, which opened in 1904 and became a popular haunt for fishermen, reopened last summer as a four-star boutique hotel after a major renovation. This summer, there’ll be DJs and regular live music.• +34 971 452237, hotelwhostalcuba.com | Hostal Cuba, already home to one of Palma’s top bars and nightclubs, now has the added attraction of the Sky Bar, which overlooks the bay and the old town – a great place for a sunset cocktail. The colonial-style hotel, which opened in 1904 and became a popular haunt for fishermen, reopened last summer as a four-star boutique hotel after a major renovation. This summer, there’ll be DJs and regular live music.• +34 971 452237, hotelwhostalcuba.com |
| S’illot de la Victória, AlcúdiaThis isolated beachside bar is only 20 minutes’ drive from Alcúdia’s busy beaches but seems a world away. It’s worth the drive just for the views of the turquoise sea through the rickety wooden fence on the terrace, and also well placed for a drink or an ice-cream after walking the Victoria peninsula (see above).• Just off the coast road north-east of Malpas Bonaire, +34 971 897218 | S’illot de la Victória, AlcúdiaThis isolated beachside bar is only 20 minutes’ drive from Alcúdia’s busy beaches but seems a world away. It’s worth the drive just for the views of the turquoise sea through the rickety wooden fence on the terrace, and also well placed for a drink or an ice-cream after walking the Victoria peninsula (see above).• Just off the coast road north-east of Malpas Bonaire, +34 971 897218 |
| Beach bar, Cala TortaThere’s nothing but this tiny shack (with no phone or website) at this beautiful cove north-east of Artà, which can only be reached by driving a rough track and then walking through the grassy dunes. That’s the beauty of it, but it also means prices are high. There’s a small menu of fish and calamares, which is wonderfully fresh, simply grilled and served with salad, not fries. | Beach bar, Cala TortaThere’s nothing but this tiny shack (with no phone or website) at this beautiful cove north-east of Artà, which can only be reached by driving a rough track and then walking through the grassy dunes. That’s the beauty of it, but it also means prices are high. There’s a small menu of fish and calamares, which is wonderfully fresh, simply grilled and served with salad, not fries. |
| Where to stay | Where to stay |
| Cases de Son Barbassa, Capdepera | Cases de Son Barbassa, Capdepera |
| In a stunning hillside location, two miles from Cala Mesquida beach, this 16th-century finca-turned-boutique hotel is super stylish with stone walls, marble floors, candles and designer rustic touches in every corner. The infinity pool is surrounded by luxurious four-poster sunbeds and there’s an adults-only hot tub. It’s glamorous but unpretentious, although you’ll still want to dress up for dinner in the hotel’s elegant glass-walled restaurant, where the best tables are on the terrace. Considering the setting, meals are surprisingly inexpensive – €29.20 for a three- course dinner.• Doubles from €170 B&B, +34 971 565776, sonbarbassa.com | In a stunning hillside location, two miles from Cala Mesquida beach, this 16th-century finca-turned-boutique hotel is super stylish with stone walls, marble floors, candles and designer rustic touches in every corner. The infinity pool is surrounded by luxurious four-poster sunbeds and there’s an adults-only hot tub. It’s glamorous but unpretentious, although you’ll still want to dress up for dinner in the hotel’s elegant glass-walled restaurant, where the best tables are on the terrace. Considering the setting, meals are surprisingly inexpensive – €29.20 for a three- course dinner.• Doubles from €170 B&B, +34 971 565776, sonbarbassa.com |
| Dalt Murada, PalmaJust behind Palma’s cathedral, in a quiet lane in the old town but close to all the action, Dalt Murada is very handy for exploring the island’s capital. The elegant 16th-century courtyard house has been in the Moragues family for more than 250 years and is full of old paintings, antiques and other family treasures. Its five rooms and five suites have tiled floors, exposed beams, and chandeliers. There’s a bar, a pretty breakfast courtyard and a roof terrace for sunset drinks. Manager Ferrán knows the city inside and out.• Doubles from €103, breakfast €7.50, +34 971 425 300, daltmurada.com | Dalt Murada, PalmaJust behind Palma’s cathedral, in a quiet lane in the old town but close to all the action, Dalt Murada is very handy for exploring the island’s capital. The elegant 16th-century courtyard house has been in the Moragues family for more than 250 years and is full of old paintings, antiques and other family treasures. Its five rooms and five suites have tiled floors, exposed beams, and chandeliers. There’s a bar, a pretty breakfast courtyard and a roof terrace for sunset drinks. Manager Ferrán knows the city inside and out.• Doubles from €103, breakfast €7.50, +34 971 425 300, daltmurada.com |
| Ca’n Reus, Fornalutx | Ca’n Reus, Fornalutx |
| With its terracotta roofs, shutters, cobbled streets and citrus groves, Fornalutx is one of the prettiest villages in Spain. The area is a favourite for walkers and many stay at Hotel C’an Reus, a typical Mallorcan townhouse a short stroll from the square, with a small pool and a terrace with mountain views. One of the nine bedrooms has a 100-year-old olive tree in the corner. No under-fives. • Doubles from €126 B&B, +34 971 639866, canreushotel.com | With its terracotta roofs, shutters, cobbled streets and citrus groves, Fornalutx is one of the prettiest villages in Spain. The area is a favourite for walkers and many stay at Hotel C’an Reus, a typical Mallorcan townhouse a short stroll from the square, with a small pool and a terrace with mountain views. One of the nine bedrooms has a 100-year-old olive tree in the corner. No under-fives. • Doubles from €126 B&B, +34 971 639866, canreushotel.com |
| L’Hostal Pollensa, PollensaThis fun hotel is the no-frills sister to the historic Juma. Both are in Pollensa’s pretty old town: Juma sits on the sunny Plaça Major and L’Hostal is just round the corner in a shady side street. Six spacious bedrooms have original artwork and brightly coloured cushions and rugs. Downstairs there’s a communal lounge area with patio doors leading to a small courtyard. A buffet breakfast is usually served here, but in the quieter months L’Hostal guests take breakfast at Juma.• Doubles from €63 B&B, +34 971 535282, i-escape.com/lhostal-pollensa | L’Hostal Pollensa, PollensaThis fun hotel is the no-frills sister to the historic Juma. Both are in Pollensa’s pretty old town: Juma sits on the sunny Plaça Major and L’Hostal is just round the corner in a shady side street. Six spacious bedrooms have original artwork and brightly coloured cushions and rugs. Downstairs there’s a communal lounge area with patio doors leading to a small courtyard. A buffet breakfast is usually served here, but in the quieter months L’Hostal guests take breakfast at Juma.• Doubles from €63 B&B, +34 971 535282, i-escape.com/lhostal-pollensa |
| Sa Rota d’en Palerm, near SineuExperience the best of rural Mallorca at this 70-acre converted farmstead in the heart of the island. Surrounded by fig and almond trees, the main house has a double room and two apartments. On the other side of the large pool, six more apartments, set around a courtyard, have private terraces looking across the valley towards the Tramuntana mountains. Breakfasts include bread and fig jam made by the charming owners.• Doubles from €139, apartments for two from €142, breakfast €12.50, +34 654 131 331, sa-rota.com | Sa Rota d’en Palerm, near SineuExperience the best of rural Mallorca at this 70-acre converted farmstead in the heart of the island. Surrounded by fig and almond trees, the main house has a double room and two apartments. On the other side of the large pool, six more apartments, set around a courtyard, have private terraces looking across the valley towards the Tramuntana mountains. Breakfasts include bread and fig jam made by the charming owners.• Doubles from €139, apartments for two from €142, breakfast €12.50, +34 654 131 331, sa-rota.com |
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