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Never take an egg for granted Never take an egg for granted
(4 days later)
Most people know how to “make eggs”. But “making eggs” sounds dull and habitual, and too much like “making do”, and we – and eggs – deserve better.Most people know how to “make eggs”. But “making eggs” sounds dull and habitual, and too much like “making do”, and we – and eggs – deserve better.
I have three things to say.I have three things to say.
First, an egg is not an egg is not an egg. I don’t know what to call the things that are produced by hens crowded into dirty cages, their beaks snipped, tricked into laying constantly. Whatever they are, they are only edible in the sense that we can cram anything down if we need to.First, an egg is not an egg is not an egg. I don’t know what to call the things that are produced by hens crowded into dirty cages, their beaks snipped, tricked into laying constantly. Whatever they are, they are only edible in the sense that we can cram anything down if we need to.
Eggs should be laid by chickens that have a say in it. Their yolks should, depending on the time of year, range from buttercup yellow to marigold. They should come from as nearby as possible. We don’t all live near cattle ranches, but most of us live surprisingly close to someone raising chickens. If you find lively eggs from local chickens, buy them. They will be a good deal more than simply edible.Eggs should be laid by chickens that have a say in it. Their yolks should, depending on the time of year, range from buttercup yellow to marigold. They should come from as nearby as possible. We don’t all live near cattle ranches, but most of us live surprisingly close to someone raising chickens. If you find lively eggs from local chickens, buy them. They will be a good deal more than simply edible.
Second, a good egg is only worth it if you know all it’s good for. Eggs possess in them some of the mystical energy of flight. One cookbook from the 1930s lists, in a catalogue of egg’s uses: “albumen water [egg whites] for invalids … for exhaustion … emergency dressing for a burn … antidote to poisoning.” I haven’t used them to treat poisoning, but if the need arose I would.Second, a good egg is only worth it if you know all it’s good for. Eggs possess in them some of the mystical energy of flight. One cookbook from the 1930s lists, in a catalogue of egg’s uses: “albumen water [egg whites] for invalids … for exhaustion … emergency dressing for a burn … antidote to poisoning.” I haven’t used them to treat poisoning, but if the need arose I would.
Good eggs are worth it, so long as you stop before cracking it and think: “I am going to softly scramble this egg” or “a bowl of yesterday’s rice would be delicious topped with this”.Good eggs are worth it, so long as you stop before cracking it and think: “I am going to softly scramble this egg” or “a bowl of yesterday’s rice would be delicious topped with this”.
Third, meals may still qualify as meals if they are eggless, but an egg can turn anything into a meal, and is never so pleased as when it is allowed to do so.Third, meals may still qualify as meals if they are eggless, but an egg can turn anything into a meal, and is never so pleased as when it is allowed to do so.
An egg can turn anything into a meal, and is never so pleased as when it is allowed to do so...An egg can turn anything into a meal, and is never so pleased as when it is allowed to do so...
Boiled eggs are almost as underappreciated as boiling water. I think the perfect boiled egg has a firm white and a yolk that’s just cooked enough to hold together when the egg’s cut in two. Always salt an egg directly. Do it when it’s hot. It makes all the difference in the world.Boiled eggs are almost as underappreciated as boiling water. I think the perfect boiled egg has a firm white and a yolk that’s just cooked enough to hold together when the egg’s cut in two. Always salt an egg directly. Do it when it’s hot. It makes all the difference in the world.
Poached eggs love to be drizzled with good olive oil and grated with hard cheese, like parmesan or pecorino, then a lot of freshly cracked black pepper, topped with fresh herbs.Poached eggs love to be drizzled with good olive oil and grated with hard cheese, like parmesan or pecorino, then a lot of freshly cracked black pepper, topped with fresh herbs.
“Frying” and “scrambling” imply too much aggression. I soft-fry and I soft-scramble. Fried eggs should be cooked at a gentle sizzle, which keeps their whites from toughening, and scrambling should just be a series of persistent nudges.“Frying” and “scrambling” imply too much aggression. I soft-fry and I soft-scramble. Fried eggs should be cooked at a gentle sizzle, which keeps their whites from toughening, and scrambling should just be a series of persistent nudges.
I find it easiest to think of omelettes as scrambled eggs I stop pushing around and add a spoonful of something wonderful to. There shouldn’t be anything plain or predictable about omelette fillings. The person who understands this best is Gabrielle Hamilton, chef at Prune restaurant in New York’s East Village, who cooks omelettes like she’s there on the eggs’ behalf.I find it easiest to think of omelettes as scrambled eggs I stop pushing around and add a spoonful of something wonderful to. There shouldn’t be anything plain or predictable about omelette fillings. The person who understands this best is Gabrielle Hamilton, chef at Prune restaurant in New York’s East Village, who cooks omelettes like she’s there on the eggs’ behalf.
So let your omelette have, as one of hers does, three deep-fried oysters and a heavy smear of cold remoulade sauce. Even if you don’t have oysters, there is still something luxurious about a thick, cold, creamy filling in the same bite as warm eggs.So let your omelette have, as one of hers does, three deep-fried oysters and a heavy smear of cold remoulade sauce. Even if you don’t have oysters, there is still something luxurious about a thick, cold, creamy filling in the same bite as warm eggs.
Or make one filled with poached beef tongue awash in garlicky salsa verde. I make a less perfect version whenever I have boiled meat around by roughly chopping it and mixing a quick relish of chopped pickles, olives, capers and an anchovy. This omelette is a meal that makes complete sense of everything else you’re doing in your kitchen. After the first bite you think: “This is why I’ve boiled meat; this is why I’ve bought good eggs; this is why I’ve taken time to cook; this is why I eat.”Or make one filled with poached beef tongue awash in garlicky salsa verde. I make a less perfect version whenever I have boiled meat around by roughly chopping it and mixing a quick relish of chopped pickles, olives, capers and an anchovy. This omelette is a meal that makes complete sense of everything else you’re doing in your kitchen. After the first bite you think: “This is why I’ve boiled meat; this is why I’ve bought good eggs; this is why I’ve taken time to cook; this is why I eat.”
Tamar Adler is a food writer based in New York. This is an edited extract from The Everlasting Meal (Scribner, a division of Simon and Schuster) @tamaradler