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You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2015/jun/08/the-insiders-cultural-guide-to-moscow-concrete-coding-and-soviet-ghosts
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| Version 3 | Version 4 |
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| The insider's cultural guide to Moscow: Concrete, coding and Soviet ghosts | The insider's cultural guide to Moscow: Concrete, coding and Soviet ghosts |
| (about 20 hours later) | |
| Moscow culture in five words | Moscow culture in five words |
| Rainbow glow in oil spills. | Rainbow glow in oil spills. |
| Sound of the city | Sound of the city |
| Crisscrossed by 10-lane avenues, Moscow is awash in fumes and traffic. Sirens, roadworks and engines blend into a 24-hour urban symphony. The noise penetrates even the most soundproof buildings. In truth, though, most Muscovites secretly enjoy being immersed in this non-stop street drama and would be terrified at the thought of moving to a noise-free countryside. | Crisscrossed by 10-lane avenues, Moscow is awash in fumes and traffic. Sirens, roadworks and engines blend into a 24-hour urban symphony. The noise penetrates even the most soundproof buildings. In truth, though, most Muscovites secretly enjoy being immersed in this non-stop street drama and would be terrified at the thought of moving to a noise-free countryside. |
| What’s the look on the street? | What’s the look on the street? |
| Although Moscow’s bohemian restaurants are still filled with the fur-addicted crowd, the younger generation’s style wouldn’t be out of place in Kreuzberg or Shoreditch – a mix of vintage trophies and minimalist Scandinavian brands, ideally with a few locally produced items such as quirky bracelets from Moroz. For the new rebellious aesthetic, look out for brands such as Gosha Rubchinskiy and Tigran Avetisyan. | Although Moscow’s bohemian restaurants are still filled with the fur-addicted crowd, the younger generation’s style wouldn’t be out of place in Kreuzberg or Shoreditch – a mix of vintage trophies and minimalist Scandinavian brands, ideally with a few locally produced items such as quirky bracelets from Moroz. For the new rebellious aesthetic, look out for brands such as Gosha Rubchinskiy and Tigran Avetisyan. |
| Related: Guardian Moscow Week / Московская неделя Guardian – live | Related: Guardian Moscow Week / Московская неделя Guardian – live |
| Photographer Alena Chandler’s blog, Cycle Lady, documents the changing habits of the city’s fashion scene – and its transportation. As bikes slowly carve out a space on the roads, we’re seeing a new generation of smart-looking urban riders. | Photographer Alena Chandler’s blog, Cycle Lady, documents the changing habits of the city’s fashion scene – and its transportation. As bikes slowly carve out a space on the roads, we’re seeing a new generation of smart-looking urban riders. |
| Everyone’s tuning into … | Everyone’s tuning into … |
| The Echo of Moscow radio station is widely regarded as one of the last bastions of free speech in Russia, a country where political debates have gradually become an oddity. This station gives voice to opposition leaders and reports on events that are otherwise ignored or misinterpreted by other state-controlled media. | The Echo of Moscow radio station is widely regarded as one of the last bastions of free speech in Russia, a country where political debates have gradually become an oddity. This station gives voice to opposition leaders and reports on events that are otherwise ignored or misinterpreted by other state-controlled media. |
| Echo of Moscow’s reputation is inseparable from its charismatic editor-in-chief, Alexey Venediktov, dubbed the walking news agency. His Twitter account remains the most reliable source of breaking news in the country, despite an ongoing scandal over his staffing choices. | Echo of Moscow’s reputation is inseparable from its charismatic editor-in-chief, Alexey Venediktov, dubbed the walking news agency. His Twitter account remains the most reliable source of breaking news in the country, despite an ongoing scandal over his staffing choices. |
| Best current venue | Best current venue |
| Techno, bars and cocktails are old news in Moscow. Coding, however, is all the rage. A new temple for local digital warriors has opened in an atmospheric constructivist warehouse, which was once home to the first Soviet communication company. DI Telegraph is a concrete playground for the diverse creative crowd, with its jam-packed schedule of pop science lectures, build-your-own-app courses, gastronomic fairs, coffee tastings and secret parties. | Techno, bars and cocktails are old news in Moscow. Coding, however, is all the rage. A new temple for local digital warriors has opened in an atmospheric constructivist warehouse, which was once home to the first Soviet communication company. DI Telegraph is a concrete playground for the diverse creative crowd, with its jam-packed schedule of pop science lectures, build-your-own-app courses, gastronomic fairs, coffee tastings and secret parties. |
| Best local artist | Best local artist |
| Taus Makhacheva explores geopolitical issues through video installations, photography and performances. Splitting her time between Moscow and Makachkala, in the mountainous southern republic of Dagestan, she provides critical reflections on the identity and collective memory of modern Caucasus and Russia. | Taus Makhacheva explores geopolitical issues through video installations, photography and performances. Splitting her time between Moscow and Makachkala, in the mountainous southern republic of Dagestan, she provides critical reflections on the identity and collective memory of modern Caucasus and Russia. |
| Last year Makhacheva baked a jumbo cake in the shape of the Russian Federation, complete with all of its regions and autonomous republics, for an exclusive private party in Moscow. Guests – including oligarchs and art lovers – quickly cut the country into pieces and ate it. | Last year Makhacheva baked a jumbo cake in the shape of the Russian Federation, complete with all of its regions and autonomous republics, for an exclusive private party in Moscow. Guests – including oligarchs and art lovers – quickly cut the country into pieces and ate it. |
| Who’s top of the playlist? | Who’s top of the playlist? |
| Gost Zvuk is a new vinyl label curated by the seasoned music aficionado Low Bob, who works exclusively with homegrown producers, often described as the new Russian musical avant garde. Driven by their DIY ethos, the label’s new stars such as Vtgnike, Ol and Lapti have pushed the boundaries of Moscow’s electronic scene. | Gost Zvuk is a new vinyl label curated by the seasoned music aficionado Low Bob, who works exclusively with homegrown producers, often described as the new Russian musical avant garde. Driven by their DIY ethos, the label’s new stars such as Vtgnike, Ol and Lapti have pushed the boundaries of Moscow’s electronic scene. |
| What’s the big talking point? | What’s the big talking point? |
| Beyond the conflict in Ukraine and crumbling economy (both of which dominate the national news agenda), one story that shook Moscow recently was the planned statue of St Vladimir – medieval baptiser of ancient Rus – which the city’s authorities plan to erect atop the spectacular Sparrow Hills. These hills, which are currently home to a precious botanical garden and boast an incredible view of the capital, are set to be bulldozed to make way for the erection of this 82-foot statue: the first of a religious figure in the city. | Beyond the conflict in Ukraine and crumbling economy (both of which dominate the national news agenda), one story that shook Moscow recently was the planned statue of St Vladimir – medieval baptiser of ancient Rus – which the city’s authorities plan to erect atop the spectacular Sparrow Hills. These hills, which are currently home to a precious botanical garden and boast an incredible view of the capital, are set to be bulldozed to make way for the erection of this 82-foot statue: the first of a religious figure in the city. |
| The decision met with fierce criticism from dozens of thousands of people who signed an online petition against the monument. However, given the current political climate and the powerful standing of the Russian Orthodox Church, it’s unlikely these opposing voices will be taken into account. | The decision met with fierce criticism from dozens of thousands of people who signed an online petition against the monument. However, given the current political climate and the powerful standing of the Russian Orthodox Church, it’s unlikely these opposing voices will be taken into account. |
| Best cultural Instagram account | Best cultural Instagram account |
| For the creators of the emoji-heavy ss.3ak Instagram account, the capital looks like a futuristic space station. Its photographers find unorthodox places and angles to reflect on Moscow’s rapidly changing landscape, with new high-rises and gargantuan structures springing up all over the city. | For the creators of the emoji-heavy ss.3ak Instagram account, the capital looks like a futuristic space station. Its photographers find unorthodox places and angles to reflect on Moscow’s rapidly changing landscape, with new high-rises and gargantuan structures springing up all over the city. |
| What Moscow does better than anyone else | What Moscow does better than anyone else |
| Moscow is a truly 24-hour city. You can get a new haircut, take your friends out for an impromptu drink, go for a dip in a public pool or even find yourself stuck in a traffic jam at 3am. | Moscow is a truly 24-hour city. You can get a new haircut, take your friends out for an impromptu drink, go for a dip in a public pool or even find yourself stuck in a traffic jam at 3am. |
| Comedy gold | Comedy gold |
| There is a coub for anything on the internet. Created by designer Igor Gladkoborov, Coub is an online service for editing and sharing looped videos. Since its launch, it has become a new web cult for its users in Russia, with thousands of witty snippets thrown on to social media every day – such as the one above, which sends an unsuspecting babushka on the Moscow metro into outer space. Coub is a testament to the success of Moscow’s remix culture, whereby new artworks are constantly being derived from old material (or recent Game of Thrones episodes). | There is a coub for anything on the internet. Created by designer Igor Gladkoborov, Coub is an online service for editing and sharing looped videos. Since its launch, it has become a new web cult for its users in Russia, with thousands of witty snippets thrown on to social media every day – such as the one above, which sends an unsuspecting babushka on the Moscow metro into outer space. Coub is a testament to the success of Moscow’s remix culture, whereby new artworks are constantly being derived from old material (or recent Game of Thrones episodes). |
| Moment in history | Moment in history |
| In September 1991, three months before the fall of the Soviet Union, 1.6 million people gathered at a giant field in northern Moscow to sing along – or rather growl along – with some of the hottest rock acts of the time, including AC/DC, Pantera, Metallica, the Black Crowes and the cult Soviet band EST. Up until that moment, all of these bands were banned from performing in the USSR. It was one of the first and undoubtedly the largest rock gig in Russian history – there were enough people to fill Glastonbury festival 13 times over – and a sure sign that the country would never be the same again. | In September 1991, three months before the fall of the Soviet Union, 1.6 million people gathered at a giant field in northern Moscow to sing along – or rather growl along – with some of the hottest rock acts of the time, including AC/DC, Pantera, Metallica, the Black Crowes and the cult Soviet band EST. Up until that moment, all of these bands were banned from performing in the USSR. It was one of the first and undoubtedly the largest rock gig in Russian history – there were enough people to fill Glastonbury festival 13 times over – and a sure sign that the country would never be the same again. |
| Best recent street art | Best recent street art |
| Just like elsewhere in Europe, street art in Russia has been largely institutionalised and re-appropriated by swanky galleries – Moscow even had its first biennale of street art last year. But Misha Most offers a refreshingly light-hearted interpretation of the genre, based on the rich tradition of Russian satirical absurdism.. | Just like elsewhere in Europe, street art in Russia has been largely institutionalised and re-appropriated by swanky galleries – Moscow even had its first biennale of street art last year. But Misha Most offers a refreshingly light-hearted interpretation of the genre, based on the rich tradition of Russian satirical absurdism.. |
| From me | From me |
| Igor Zinatulin is a culture journalist and part of the editorial team of the Calvert Journal, a guide to the new east. | |
| Five to follow | Five to follow |
| Moscow Facades | Moscow Facades |
| Deep Mix | Deep Mix |
| Moscow Zoo | Moscow Zoo |
| Central Park | Central Park |
| Walk of Shame | Walk of Shame |