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| Iranians guardedly optimistic as deadline of Vienna nuclear talks nears | |
| (35 minutes later) | |
| In the dazzling heat of a Tehran morning, the city’s carpet museum is a mercifully cool haven of magnificent specimens of Iran’s cultural heritage. Yet even here, among woven wonders from Isfahan, Mashhad and Kerman, the shadow of the sanctions imposed on the country as a result of its nuclear programme falls – as hopes grow for an agreement that will ease years of pain. | In the dazzling heat of a Tehran morning, the city’s carpet museum is a mercifully cool haven of magnificent specimens of Iran’s cultural heritage. Yet even here, among woven wonders from Isfahan, Mashhad and Kerman, the shadow of the sanctions imposed on the country as a result of its nuclear programme falls – as hopes grow for an agreement that will ease years of pain. |
| Nahid, wearing an obligatory headscarf and modest belted tunic, is busy repairing the tassels of an exquisite red and black Persian rug spread out on a wooden table. The museum, however, is deserted. Tourists are few and far between, though those who do come leave generous compliments in the visitors book. “It has got easier for foreigners,” the young woman explains. “But it will surely improve more when sanctions are lifted.” | Nahid, wearing an obligatory headscarf and modest belted tunic, is busy repairing the tassels of an exquisite red and black Persian rug spread out on a wooden table. The museum, however, is deserted. Tourists are few and far between, though those who do come leave generous compliments in the visitors book. “It has got easier for foreigners,” the young woman explains. “But it will surely improve more when sanctions are lifted.” |
| Halfway through Ramadan, with temperatures in the high 30s, the capital’s air heavily polluted and traffic permanently gridlocked, Tehranis have plenty on their minds, but people from all walks of life understand that the stakes are high in the Vienna nuclear negotiations, due to reach their deadline on Tuesday after April’s interim deal in Lausanne. | Halfway through Ramadan, with temperatures in the high 30s, the capital’s air heavily polluted and traffic permanently gridlocked, Tehranis have plenty on their minds, but people from all walks of life understand that the stakes are high in the Vienna nuclear negotiations, due to reach their deadline on Tuesday after April’s interim deal in Lausanne. |
| Back then there was euphoria. Many took selfies against a backdrop of TV screens showing Barack Obama, the leader of a nation whose officials have not set foot in this city in the 35 years since the revolution. | Back then there was euphoria. Many took selfies against a backdrop of TV screens showing Barack Obama, the leader of a nation whose officials have not set foot in this city in the 35 years since the revolution. |
| Now the mood is more guarded. Expectations reflect the sharp political divisions of the Islamic Republic and some clearly fear saying the wrong thing and incurring official displeasure. “Yes, I am optimistic,” says Mohamedreza, a well-heeled executive who drives an expensive Mercedes. “I am sure western governments want to ease sanctions.” Few people are willing to give their full names to a visiting western journalist with a rare visa. | |
| Mohamed Javad Zarif, the foreign minister and chief nuclear negotiator, is the hero of the reformist camp. He is feted as a savvy diplomat who deals on equal terms with the US secretary of state, John Kerry. Zarif is associated with the president, Hassan Rouhani, whose election two years ago ended the rule of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, the master of a vulgar populism that many found repugnant and that worsened Iran’s isolation. | Mohamed Javad Zarif, the foreign minister and chief nuclear negotiator, is the hero of the reformist camp. He is feted as a savvy diplomat who deals on equal terms with the US secretary of state, John Kerry. Zarif is associated with the president, Hassan Rouhani, whose election two years ago ended the rule of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, the master of a vulgar populism that many found repugnant and that worsened Iran’s isolation. |
| Still, only a few of Monday’s daily newspapers carry the nuclear talks as their main story. Ebtekar, a privately owned paper, goes for a dramatic “One step to agreement” headline. Iran, a government paper, publishes a drier report on Zarif’s return home to consult the supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, who has the last word on national security issues – and much more besides. | Still, only a few of Monday’s daily newspapers carry the nuclear talks as their main story. Ebtekar, a privately owned paper, goes for a dramatic “One step to agreement” headline. Iran, a government paper, publishes a drier report on Zarif’s return home to consult the supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, who has the last word on national security issues – and much more besides. |
| In some quarters of Tehran the view is that what happens in Vienna will not stay in Vienna but will have profound implications for Iran as a whole; that lessening the country’s international isolation will empower the forces of progress at home; that there will be a link, in the words of one foreign diplomat, between the number of centrifuges that are dismantled and, say, the universal requirement that women wear the hijab in public. | In some quarters of Tehran the view is that what happens in Vienna will not stay in Vienna but will have profound implications for Iran as a whole; that lessening the country’s international isolation will empower the forces of progress at home; that there will be a link, in the words of one foreign diplomat, between the number of centrifuges that are dismantled and, say, the universal requirement that women wear the hijab in public. |
| “If there is a nuclear agreement it will be a victory for the forces of progress over the forces of darkness,” jokes Vali, a businessman with strong reformist instincts. | “If there is a nuclear agreement it will be a victory for the forces of progress over the forces of darkness,” jokes Vali, a businessman with strong reformist instincts. |
| Others are more sceptical. “Rouhani can’t deal with issues like freedoms,” argues Melika, a guide at the carpet museum. “He can’t because he doesn’t have the authority.” Mehran, an architect whose wealthy family has commercial interests in Dubai, goes further. “The problem is that we don’t have freedoms – and the way this government runs the country,” he says. Friends scorn his views as spoiled and unrealistic. | Others are more sceptical. “Rouhani can’t deal with issues like freedoms,” argues Melika, a guide at the carpet museum. “He can’t because he doesn’t have the authority.” Mehran, an architect whose wealthy family has commercial interests in Dubai, goes further. “The problem is that we don’t have freedoms – and the way this government runs the country,” he says. Friends scorn his views as spoiled and unrealistic. |
| Disagreements are natural. But there is more unity on the substance of the sanctions question. Vahija is a chemistry student who hopes to do research in Germany. “OK maybe it was necessary to impose sanctions on nuclear things. But why do students have to suffer?” she complains. “Western governments have made ordinary Iranians pay the price.” Melika agrees: “Why have they made it harder for people to buy some drugs or to get spare parts for planes?” | Disagreements are natural. But there is more unity on the substance of the sanctions question. Vahija is a chemistry student who hopes to do research in Germany. “OK maybe it was necessary to impose sanctions on nuclear things. But why do students have to suffer?” she complains. “Western governments have made ordinary Iranians pay the price.” Melika agrees: “Why have they made it harder for people to buy some drugs or to get spare parts for planes?” |
| Massoumeh, an elegantly dressed accountant – her green silk headscarf hinting at progressive views – describes the devastating impact of sanctions across social classes, even in leafy north Tehran. “You see the effect from morning until night. People are depressed because they feel they don’t have a future. Yes, I do try to be optimistic, but the signs are not very good. We are in limbo. Everything is on hold. Nothing is clear.” | Massoumeh, an elegantly dressed accountant – her green silk headscarf hinting at progressive views – describes the devastating impact of sanctions across social classes, even in leafy north Tehran. “You see the effect from morning until night. People are depressed because they feel they don’t have a future. Yes, I do try to be optimistic, but the signs are not very good. We are in limbo. Everything is on hold. Nothing is clear.” |
| Old prejudices mean that it is wrong to assume success in Vienna. Mohammed, a printer, works across the road from Tehran University, where weekly Friday prayers display Iran’s deep suspicion of the US – a wolf, in the words of Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, that is always in pursuit of the Iranian lamb. “If we compromise too much, it will not be the end of the story because then they will want something else,” Mohammed says. “We have already shown enough flexibility. Israel has nuclear bombs, but they haven’t signed the non-proliferation treaty. We have signed it and we don’t have bombs. But if sanctions end at once and we can keep our peaceful nuclear energy then that will be OK.” | Old prejudices mean that it is wrong to assume success in Vienna. Mohammed, a printer, works across the road from Tehran University, where weekly Friday prayers display Iran’s deep suspicion of the US – a wolf, in the words of Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, that is always in pursuit of the Iranian lamb. “If we compromise too much, it will not be the end of the story because then they will want something else,” Mohammed says. “We have already shown enough flexibility. Israel has nuclear bombs, but they haven’t signed the non-proliferation treaty. We have signed it and we don’t have bombs. But if sanctions end at once and we can keep our peaceful nuclear energy then that will be OK.” |
| Ali, a retired official with hardline views, is anxious to see sanctions end: “Why would you not want sanctions to go when they mean that you have to pay twice as much for everything?” But he too mistrusts the US – harking back to how Washington reneged on its undertaking not to interfere in Iran’s internal affairs when the US embassy hostages were freed after their 444-day ordeal in 1981. | Ali, a retired official with hardline views, is anxious to see sanctions end: “Why would you not want sanctions to go when they mean that you have to pay twice as much for everything?” But he too mistrusts the US – harking back to how Washington reneged on its undertaking not to interfere in Iran’s internal affairs when the US embassy hostages were freed after their 444-day ordeal in 1981. |
| And after all, he notes, Hillary Clinton admitted that she was in contact with the reformist Green movement leaders who challenged Ahmadinejad in 2009 – and who are still under house arrest despite Rouhani’s pledge to free them. “There is severe mistrust on both sides, for legitimate reasons.” | And after all, he notes, Hillary Clinton admitted that she was in contact with the reformist Green movement leaders who challenged Ahmadinejad in 2009 – and who are still under house arrest despite Rouhani’s pledge to free them. “There is severe mistrust on both sides, for legitimate reasons.” |
| Overall, the mood in Tehran suggests that a nuclear deal is taking shape in Vienna, primarily because both sides want it and need it. Iran, though, will not pay any price and can certainly wait a little longer for the big moment. “I do believe that a historic agreement will be reached,” predicts Sadegh Zibakalam, a Tehran University political scientist. “It may not happen tomorrow, but it will definitely happen within the next couple of days. Of course there will be some issues outstanding, but both partners will want to show that they have reached a total agreement.” | Overall, the mood in Tehran suggests that a nuclear deal is taking shape in Vienna, primarily because both sides want it and need it. Iran, though, will not pay any price and can certainly wait a little longer for the big moment. “I do believe that a historic agreement will be reached,” predicts Sadegh Zibakalam, a Tehran University political scientist. “It may not happen tomorrow, but it will definitely happen within the next couple of days. Of course there will be some issues outstanding, but both partners will want to show that they have reached a total agreement.” |