'One of our own' Pope Francis returns to South America

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-33396091

Version 0 of 1.

At Quito's Parque Bicentenario, in the city's former airport, hundreds of workers are taking care of even the smallest details ahead of the first papal visit to Ecuador in 30 years.

They've even brought in special furniture to welcome Pope Francis this Sunday.

A large mass here will be one of the main events of his seven-day trip to Ecuador, Bolivia and Paraguay, his first tour of his native Latin America.

He will be greeted by millions like a spiritual rock star.

On the former airport's old runways - often used for massive shows by artists like Metallica or Cirque du Soleil - scaffolding and giant screens have been set up.

No one is more excited about this visit than Father Ruben Dario Bedoya, who, for months, has been organising the mass.

"He is one of our own," he says. "I'm not saying the other Popes weren't human or sensitive, but the Lord has sent the Pope that the Church needed."

Recent polls by the Pew Research Center suggest that two years after his election to the papacy, Pope Francis is extremely popular in Latin America, with three-quarters having a positive opinion of him.

His soft power extends beyond Catholics, as he is widely perceived as a force for change in one of the world's oldest institutions.

"Francisco earned the role of global moral mediator", the Argentine activist Gustavo Vera, one of the Pope's closest friends in his hometown Buenos Aires, tells the BBC.

In Ecuador, he will need to put his mediation skills to the test.

In recent weeks, the country has witnessed its biggest anti-government protests in years, with president Rafael Correa accused of using the Pope's visit for political gain.

"This time, not even Francisco will be able to save you, traitor," read one banner in one of the protests against the government's tax policies in Quito.

Mr Correa, facing one of the worst popularity crises since coming to power in 2008, demanded an end to the protests and asked that everyone enjoy peace during the papal visit.

The Catholic Church has a long history of clashes with left-wing Latin American leaders. But that is starting to change.

Those who were once fierce critics of the power and influence of the Church now seem eager to share a picture with Pope Francis.

To chew or not to chew?

In Bolivia, the government revealed the Pope asked to chew coca leaves during his visit, to combat altitude sickness. The Pope's trip includes La Paz, which sits at 3,650m (11,975ft).

President Evo Morales, who used to be a coca grower, has long campaigned to decriminalise the consumption of coca leaves.

If the Pope were to chew coca leaves, it would be regarded as a strong backing for Mr Morales's campaign.

Even Cuba's communist leader Raul Castro said he might resume praying and turn to the Church again after the Pope helped broker the restoration of relations between Cuba and the US.

Pope Francis is expected to avoid getting involved in politics during this trip.

He will meet elderly people, prison inmates and indigenous representatives.

Poverty and social inclusion will be at the core of his agenda in Latin America, where the gap between the rich and the poor is a major problem.

"Francisco is hopeful that Latin America will show in a near future new paths of compassion to the rest of the world" Gustavo Vera, the Pope's friend, says.

But not everyone in Ecuador is celebrating his arrival - or the $3m (1.9m) it is costing.

Homeless people and shoeshine boys in Quito's grand central square share the plaza with the impressive cathedral.

Irene Casillas, a make-up saleswoman from Quito, says it is this sort of inequality that made her turn away from the Catholic Church.

"I think the Vatican should get rid of the material things to help those who need it," she says.

"The arrival of the Pope will not be the solution to all our problems. As soon as he is gone, poverty will still be there."

Latin America represents nearly 40% of the world's total Catholic population, with 425 million people.

But, every day, more people like Irene leave the Church or join evangelical communities.

Child abuse scandals and a Vatican seen as being out of touch have led people to turn to other churches.

In 1970, 90% of Latin Americans identified themselves as Catholics. Today, that has fallen to just 69%.

The "Pope of the Poor" will spend the next week trying to change this.

Despite the many challenges the Church faces, Pope Francis has brought a new energy and optimism to Catholics in Latin America.

"This Pope is more warm-hearted, he's more fraternal and more eloquent in his acts than other pontiffs," Father Ruben Dario says.

"That is leaving a mark on us Latinos."