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| Colombian City’s New Face and Violent Underbelly Collide | Colombian City’s New Face and Violent Underbelly Collide |
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| BUENAVENTURA, Colombia — This has been called one of South America’s most violent cities, infamous for its “chop-up houses,” where victims are murdered and dismembered, their bodies later found on the streets or washed up in the stilt-house slums that line the shores of the polluted bay. | BUENAVENTURA, Colombia — This has been called one of South America’s most violent cities, infamous for its “chop-up houses,” where victims are murdered and dismembered, their bodies later found on the streets or washed up in the stilt-house slums that line the shores of the polluted bay. |
| And yet, in recent weeks, workers were busily laying pink and gray flagstones for a pedestrian mall in front of a newly built hotel and condominium complex meant to attract the international executives who are investing billions of dollars to expand this city’s busy port. | And yet, in recent weeks, workers were busily laying pink and gray flagstones for a pedestrian mall in front of a newly built hotel and condominium complex meant to attract the international executives who are investing billions of dollars to expand this city’s busy port. |
| People here often talk of the two Colombias. One is the country of a sophisticated elite, growing rich off international trade and jetting between Bogotá and other world capitals. The other is a country of crushing poverty and violence where lawlessness reigns. | People here often talk of the two Colombias. One is the country of a sophisticated elite, growing rich off international trade and jetting between Bogotá and other world capitals. The other is a country of crushing poverty and violence where lawlessness reigns. |
| In this Pacific port city, these two Colombias come face to face with raw impact. | In this Pacific port city, these two Colombias come face to face with raw impact. |
| Buenaventura is the country’s main Pacific port and the centerpiece of a government strategy to focus on increasing trade with Asia and Western Hemisphere countries on the Pacific, including Chile, Mexico, Peru and the United States. | Buenaventura is the country’s main Pacific port and the centerpiece of a government strategy to focus on increasing trade with Asia and Western Hemisphere countries on the Pacific, including Chile, Mexico, Peru and the United States. |
| At the same time, it is plagued by intractable poverty and violence, a place where vicious gangs hold sway, long isolated from the central government in Bogotá. | At the same time, it is plagued by intractable poverty and violence, a place where vicious gangs hold sway, long isolated from the central government in Bogotá. |
| The violence here, with its visceral cruelty, has gotten much attention. Prosecutors said at least two of the chopped up corpses found last year showed signs that they had been dismembered while the victims were still alive. Human Rights Watch, an advocacy group based in New York, has published two recent reports denouncing conditions here. | The violence here, with its visceral cruelty, has gotten much attention. Prosecutors said at least two of the chopped up corpses found last year showed signs that they had been dismembered while the victims were still alive. Human Rights Watch, an advocacy group based in New York, has published two recent reports denouncing conditions here. |
| The violence finally prompted President Juan Manuel Santos to intervene last year, sending in a flood of police officers and soldiers to patrol the streets and ordering an emergency infusion of cash. | The violence finally prompted President Juan Manuel Santos to intervene last year, sending in a flood of police officers and soldiers to patrol the streets and ordering an emergency infusion of cash. |
| Such measures have brought clear improvements, but many residents and officials fear they will be short-lived if the government’s attention strays or if the extra police presence is sent away. | Such measures have brought clear improvements, but many residents and officials fear they will be short-lived if the government’s attention strays or if the extra police presence is sent away. |
| “You hear on television that Buenaventura is peaceful, but that’s a downright lie,” said Álvaro Valencia, a fish merchant who lives in a neighborhood of houses built over the water. “Ask anyone who has to live with the fear.” | “You hear on television that Buenaventura is peaceful, but that’s a downright lie,” said Álvaro Valencia, a fish merchant who lives in a neighborhood of houses built over the water. “Ask anyone who has to live with the fear.” |
| Mr. Valencia came to his current neighborhood, San José, after he fled his old one for fear of the violent gangs there. | Mr. Valencia came to his current neighborhood, San José, after he fled his old one for fear of the violent gangs there. |
| “It’s no secret that there isn’t anywhere that you can feel safe,” Mr. Valencia said. | “It’s no secret that there isn’t anywhere that you can feel safe,” Mr. Valencia said. |
| For now, the added law enforcement presence and a focus on arresting gang members has cut the murder rate significantly, according to Col. Marcelo Russi, who took over as police commander in September. Disappearances were also down. | For now, the added law enforcement presence and a focus on arresting gang members has cut the murder rate significantly, according to Col. Marcelo Russi, who took over as police commander in September. Disappearances were also down. |
| But there are so many unsolved cases on the books, including a backlog of more than 400 disappearances, that investigators have hardly been able to make a dent in them. | But there are so many unsolved cases on the books, including a backlog of more than 400 disappearances, that investigators have hardly been able to make a dent in them. |
| Buenaventura is the linchpin in the president’s strategy of promoting greater trade with Asia, the Pacific Coast of the United States and Latin America. But the city and nearby coastal areas are also important exit points for cocaine and other drugs heading up the coast toward the United States. | Buenaventura is the linchpin in the president’s strategy of promoting greater trade with Asia, the Pacific Coast of the United States and Latin America. But the city and nearby coastal areas are also important exit points for cocaine and other drugs heading up the coast toward the United States. |
| The city was once a battleground between leftist guerrillas of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or FARC, and right-wing paramilitary groups. Several years ago, the paramilitary groups drove the FARC out of the city and established sway there. Those groups have since converted into criminal organizations that live off drug trafficking and extortion, often battling one another for territory. | The city was once a battleground between leftist guerrillas of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, or FARC, and right-wing paramilitary groups. Several years ago, the paramilitary groups drove the FARC out of the city and established sway there. Those groups have since converted into criminal organizations that live off drug trafficking and extortion, often battling one another for territory. |
| Prosecutors said that many murders and disappearances occurred when people unwittingly crossed borders between gang territories. | Prosecutors said that many murders and disappearances occurred when people unwittingly crossed borders between gang territories. |
| That appeared to be the case with Carlos Angarita, 16, who told his mother in April 2014 that he was going out to buy a fruit salad. He never came home. | That appeared to be the case with Carlos Angarita, 16, who told his mother in April 2014 that he was going out to buy a fruit salad. He never came home. |
| The next day, the family heard that the body of a blond boy had been found. When they got to the morgue, they were shown two large black plastic bags and a small white one. The black bags held body parts, the white bag a severed head. They were Carlos’s. | The next day, the family heard that the body of a blond boy had been found. When they got to the morgue, they were shown two large black plastic bags and a small white one. The black bags held body parts, the white bag a severed head. They were Carlos’s. |
| “They cut him up in a chop-up house,” said Yuri Jiménez, 36, Carlos’s mother. She said Carlos worked alongside the rest of the family selling coconut milk from a cart and had no connections to gangs. | “They cut him up in a chop-up house,” said Yuri Jiménez, 36, Carlos’s mother. She said Carlos worked alongside the rest of the family selling coconut milk from a cart and had no connections to gangs. |
| “They killed him for no reason,” she said, weeping. | “They killed him for no reason,” she said, weeping. |
| Prosecutors said they had arrested five people in connection with Carlos’s murder, including three minors as young as 15. They said that gangs routinely recruited children as killers. | Prosecutors said they had arrested five people in connection with Carlos’s murder, including three minors as young as 15. They said that gangs routinely recruited children as killers. |
| Much of the violence is focused in poor seaside neighborhoods where residents live in rickety stilt houses perched over the water. | Much of the violence is focused in poor seaside neighborhoods where residents live in rickety stilt houses perched over the water. |
| They seem unlikely spots to fight over. | They seem unlikely spots to fight over. |
| But many residents say they believe the violence is meant to drive them from areas coveted as port facilities or waterfront tourist attractions. | But many residents say they believe the violence is meant to drive them from areas coveted as port facilities or waterfront tourist attractions. |
| The port here has attracted large investments from Colombian and international companies. A new terminal to export oil is being built. A new container port is under construction. There is a new industrial park and a new container and trucking terminal. The total amount invested adds up to billions of dollars. | The port here has attracted large investments from Colombian and international companies. A new terminal to export oil is being built. A new container port is under construction. There is a new industrial park and a new container and trucking terminal. The total amount invested adds up to billions of dollars. |
| In addition, city officials have long planned a major waterfront development project, featuring an extensive boardwalk along the bay, to attract tourists. | In addition, city officials have long planned a major waterfront development project, featuring an extensive boardwalk along the bay, to attract tourists. |
| To make way for the project, the plan called for the demolition of the stilt homes and the relocation of some of the city’s poorest residents. Many city residents now see a direct connection between Buenaventura’s development plans and the crime surrounding them. | To make way for the project, the plan called for the demolition of the stilt homes and the relocation of some of the city’s poorest residents. Many city residents now see a direct connection between Buenaventura’s development plans and the crime surrounding them. |
| Rosalinda Castillo, 38, who lives in a home in the project’s path, recalled a gun battle that broke out last year. Shortly after the dust cleared, she said, city workers appeared with offers of new houses for residents willing to move away. | Rosalinda Castillo, 38, who lives in a home in the project’s path, recalled a gun battle that broke out last year. Shortly after the dust cleared, she said, city workers appeared with offers of new houses for residents willing to move away. |
| “When they started talking about the boardwalk the problems started, and they started killing people,” said Jesús Angulo, 35, Carlos’s stepfather. “Instead of paying people for their land, they’d rather run them off through violence and fear.” | “When they started talking about the boardwalk the problems started, and they started killing people,” said Jesús Angulo, 35, Carlos’s stepfather. “Instead of paying people for their land, they’d rather run them off through violence and fear.” |
| The city planner, Wilmar Garcés, denied such accusations, though he acknowledged that the city once intended to relocate the stilt-house residents to make way for a boardwalk. | The city planner, Wilmar Garcés, denied such accusations, though he acknowledged that the city once intended to relocate the stilt-house residents to make way for a boardwalk. |
| But he said that a nonbinding master plan approved last year called for a different approach, one in which homes would be allowed to remain along the shore, while the boardwalk would be built farther out in the bay. | But he said that a nonbinding master plan approved last year called for a different approach, one in which homes would be allowed to remain along the shore, while the boardwalk would be built farther out in the bay. |
| A large color rendering of the project filling a wall of his office, however, showed the boardwalk occupying the site where the homes now stand. | A large color rendering of the project filling a wall of his office, however, showed the boardwalk occupying the site where the homes now stand. |
| When asked about the discrepancy, Mr. Garcés tore the rendering off the wall. “I’m going to take this down,” he said. “It’s caused me lots of problems.” | When asked about the discrepancy, Mr. Garcés tore the rendering off the wall. “I’m going to take this down,” he said. “It’s caused me lots of problems.” |
| A downtown boulevard being built on a recent afternoon is expected to one day link to the waterfront development. But even as officials dream of attracting tourist cash, the city lacks the most basic services. | A downtown boulevard being built on a recent afternoon is expected to one day link to the waterfront development. But even as officials dream of attracting tourist cash, the city lacks the most basic services. |
| There is no water treatment plant, so the city’s sewage flows directly into the bay, an area where many residents also fish. A majority of the population has no running water, and even those who are hooked up to the municipal system go without water for days at a time. Health services are poor. Electrical failures are frequent, and a recent rebel attack on a power line left the city in the dark for days. | |
| During a visit to the city in October, the president, Mr. Santos, promised residents consistent running water within eight months. | During a visit to the city in October, the president, Mr. Santos, promised residents consistent running water within eight months. |
| But officials said that goal was years away and millions of dollars short of becoming a reality. | But officials said that goal was years away and millions of dollars short of becoming a reality. |
| Alexander Micolta, the executive president of the Buenaventura Chamber of Commerce, said that while the port generated millions of dollars a year in customs duties and other revenue, the city saw little benefit. | |
| “If the problem of water and sewage in Buenaventura isn’t solved, then what are we talking about?” Mr. Micolta said. “Here, everything that has to do with the port advances. But the city doesn’t advance.” | “If the problem of water and sewage in Buenaventura isn’t solved, then what are we talking about?” Mr. Micolta said. “Here, everything that has to do with the port advances. But the city doesn’t advance.” |