Valley where life is just a bowl of cherries

http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2015/jul/29/country-diary-tamar-valley-cherries

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A plate of cherries, entered in the fruit class at the village show, prompts reminiscence of old trees that, in the last century, still produced the sweet black cherries peculiar to the Tamar valley.

Those remnants of former orchards have since rotted or been felled for firewood but the heritage orchard of local varieties, established by James Evans and Mary Martin, has come to fruition.

Jackdaws, pigeons and magpies were attracted by the red fruit but as it ripened and turned black it seemed to become less visible; there has been no invasion by flocks of starlings similar to those that used to ruin commercial crops during the 1950s. In a field of pale grass flowers and the emerald green of mown avenues, the maturing trees spread ever wider and taller.

Above substantial trunks, among fresh green leaves, the juicy fruits assume distinctive characteristics and flavours. Clusters of the Early Burcombe and Burcombe cherries on short stems are past prime condition but pounds have been already picked, shared out to be eaten, frozen and processed into syrup. Friends and family acquired purple-stained hands and mouths before departing from the orchard with buckets and baskets full of fruit.

Fice and Birchenhayes are the most delicious of these dessert fruits but the spindly trees crop lightly and sporadically. Bullions with reddish black fruit are now at their best with a tangy sweet taste.

Observation suggests that varieties collected under names such as Beals Mill Black, Tutwell Mazzard and Slew Fork are closely related to the once popular Bullion but this will only be confirmed by genetic testing.

Earlier in the day Kit Hill to the north was enveloped in cloud and the drizzle discouraged picking. Now, evening sun glistens on the undersides of the shiny fruits. We hook down lower branches and reach halfway up the trees from new three-legged aluminium ladders.

Meanwhile the topmost cherries are sought by chortling blackbirds. Closer to the woods birds have already stripped the Smutts, which, if allowed to ripen, would last until August.