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Southern recipes: how fish sticks saved my dad's life (and made a president cry) Southern recipes: how fish sticks saved my dad's life (and made a president cry)
(about 2 hours later)
I was brought up in a home that liked to reinforce the role of men in the kitchen.I was brought up in a home that liked to reinforce the role of men in the kitchen.
In the early days of the second world war, my father was enlisted from his newspaper job and happily assigned duty as an army mess sergeant. My dad was no ordinary cook, though, but rather a culinary soldier who would later brag that his cooking brought tears to a future president’s eyes.In the early days of the second world war, my father was enlisted from his newspaper job and happily assigned duty as an army mess sergeant. My dad was no ordinary cook, though, but rather a culinary soldier who would later brag that his cooking brought tears to a future president’s eyes.
All it took, he said, was a dose of his bâton de poisson courtbouillon at a camp table in Fort Polk, Louisiana.All it took, he said, was a dose of his bâton de poisson courtbouillon at a camp table in Fort Polk, Louisiana.
Lieutenant colonel and future commander-in-chief Dwight David Eisenhower had arrived on a surprise inspection.Lieutenant colonel and future commander-in-chief Dwight David Eisenhower had arrived on a surprise inspection.
The infantry battalion he visited – my father’s – was devising training techniques that would eventually be used for the assault of the European continent on D-Day. The day Eisenhower arrived, the troops were slogging through Louisiana marshland on an exercise designed to condition troops for penetrating inland from a beach head.The infantry battalion he visited – my father’s – was devising training techniques that would eventually be used for the assault of the European continent on D-Day. The day Eisenhower arrived, the troops were slogging through Louisiana marshland on an exercise designed to condition troops for penetrating inland from a beach head.
Eisenhower demanded that his noon meal come from the same field mess that was feeding the men. Unfortunately, the mess truck was near empty after feeding 300 hungry soldiers.Eisenhower demanded that his noon meal come from the same field mess that was feeding the men. Unfortunately, the mess truck was near empty after feeding 300 hungry soldiers.
In no time, my father had scoured the bottom of the frosted-over truck cooler only to discover that all that was left were a dozen boxes of freezer-burned fish sticks and two cans of whole tomatoes. With that, he had to make an entrée.In no time, my father had scoured the bottom of the frosted-over truck cooler only to discover that all that was left were a dozen boxes of freezer-burned fish sticks and two cans of whole tomatoes. With that, he had to make an entrée.
By chance, dad had weeks earlier scavenged half a case of decent bordeaux wine in a notoriously dry north Louisiana parish, and had stashed it away safely for a special occasion.By chance, dad had weeks earlier scavenged half a case of decent bordeaux wine in a notoriously dry north Louisiana parish, and had stashed it away safely for a special occasion.
In just 20 minutes, he had scraped the inedible breading off the sticks and formed the remaining fish meat into portions that resembled filets. He then whipped up the dish with the personal items he kept in his pack: a tiny one-burner portable stove, his helmet and his bayonet. Eisenhower watched the whole process.In just 20 minutes, he had scraped the inedible breading off the sticks and formed the remaining fish meat into portions that resembled filets. He then whipped up the dish with the personal items he kept in his pack: a tiny one-burner portable stove, his helmet and his bayonet. Eisenhower watched the whole process.
Two days later, word came down that my father had been promoted to master sergeant. He was to follow Eisenhower to Europe, but was stalled in what ended up being a tour of the southern Atlantic.Two days later, word came down that my father had been promoted to master sergeant. He was to follow Eisenhower to Europe, but was stalled in what ended up being a tour of the southern Atlantic.
He continued to happily cook deep sauces on the troop ship as it dodged U-boat after U-boat for months on end, and then master sergeant Gabour was assigned to spend the remainder of the war at a stove to feed US forces guarding the Panama Canal.He continued to happily cook deep sauces on the troop ship as it dodged U-boat after U-boat for months on end, and then master sergeant Gabour was assigned to spend the remainder of the war at a stove to feed US forces guarding the Panama Canal.
I know of no one else’s parent who came back from the second world war with a perfect tan and a taste for habanero chilies.I know of no one else’s parent who came back from the second world war with a perfect tan and a taste for habanero chilies.
Courtbouillon Acadienne (serves six, or two hungry Cajuns)Courtbouillon Acadienne (serves six, or two hungry Cajuns)
4 pound whole fish (haddock will do, have it as fresh as you can)4 pound whole fish (haddock will do, have it as fresh as you can)
2 cups fish stock (either homemade, with two cubes of store-bought fish stock)2 cups fish stock (either homemade, with two cubes of store-bought fish stock)
2 large onions2 large onions
4 garlic cloves4 garlic cloves
½ cup fresh parsley½ cup fresh parsley
6 green onions6 green onions
½ large bell pepper½ large bell pepper
1 celery stalk1 celery stalk
1 lemon1 lemon
½ cup bacon drippings, olive oil or margarine½ cup bacon drippings, olive oil or margarine
½ cup white flour½ cup white flour
1 can of diced tomatoes1 can of diced tomatoes
1 small can of tomato sauce1 small can of tomato sauce
1 small can of Ro-tel tomatoes1 small can of Ro-tel tomatoes
½ cup dry white wine½ cup dry white wine
1½ tsp salt1½ tsp salt
1 tsp Pickapeppa sauce1 tsp Pickapeppa sauce
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp LA Hot Sauce½ tsp LA Hot Sauce
½ tsp leaf oregano½ tsp leaf oregano
½ tsp leaf sweet basil½ tsp leaf sweet basil
¼ tsp ground allspice or ground cloves¼ tsp ground allspice or ground cloves
2 tsp brown sugar2 tsp brown sugar
2 large bay leaves2 large bay leaves
black & cayenne pepper to tasteblack & cayenne pepper to taste
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped roughly2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped roughly
This meal is to be served over white rice, with hot French bread. A simple green salad will work wonders to contrast its spiciness.This meal is to be served over white rice, with hot French bread. A simple green salad will work wonders to contrast its spiciness.
The fish: Clean and carefully bone your fish, resulting in two to three pounds of flesh, filleted or cut into three-quarter-inch chunks. Place in the fridge.The fish: Clean and carefully bone your fish, resulting in two to three pounds of flesh, filleted or cut into three-quarter-inch chunks. Place in the fridge.
The roux and sauce: Cut up all veggies in one-inch cubes, with the garlic, green onions, and lemon slices separated. The garlic will be sautéed last in the roux to keep it from getting bitter, and the lemon slices are added only to in the final stages of cooking. Reserve half the chopped green onions for garnish. The roux and sauce: Cut up all veggies in one-inch cubes, with the garlic, green onions, and lemon slices separated. The garlic will be sautéed last in the roux to keep it from getting bitter, and the lemon slices are added only in the final stages of cooking. Reserve half the chopped green onions for garnish.
Make a light roux by adding drippings/olive oil/margarine into a hot five-quart cast-iron Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. You need a thick, even-heating pot that won’t burn too readily. Add the flour slowly, mixing until even. Use a wooden flat-edged spoon, because you need to continually scrape the bottom of the pot in this process.Make a light roux by adding drippings/olive oil/margarine into a hot five-quart cast-iron Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. You need a thick, even-heating pot that won’t burn too readily. Add the flour slowly, mixing until even. Use a wooden flat-edged spoon, because you need to continually scrape the bottom of the pot in this process.
As you stir, the roux will get darker in stages. This light roux will take about 10 minutes of fairly steady attention. It should smell slightly nutty when it is ready for the next stage.As you stir, the roux will get darker in stages. This light roux will take about 10 minutes of fairly steady attention. It should smell slightly nutty when it is ready for the next stage.
Add the chopped vegetables and stir. Put lid on pot and cook three to five minutes.Add the chopped vegetables and stir. Put lid on pot and cook three to five minutes.
Add garlic and onions. Stir again. Put lid on and cook another three to five minutes or until onions have clarified.Add garlic and onions. Stir again. Put lid on and cook another three to five minutes or until onions have clarified.
Remove lid and pour in wine. A lot of dramatic steam will occur as you deglaze the pan. Stir aggressively. Add tomato products and fish stock. Continue until evenly mixed.Remove lid and pour in wine. A lot of dramatic steam will occur as you deglaze the pan. Stir aggressively. Add tomato products and fish stock. Continue until evenly mixed.
Add all spices. Reduce fire to a very low level. Cook for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring occasionally to insure that the sauce, which should taste robust and subtly sweet, is not sticking to bottom.Add all spices. Reduce fire to a very low level. Cook for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring occasionally to insure that the sauce, which should taste robust and subtly sweet, is not sticking to bottom.
Add the fish to the sauce gently, taking care not to break up the pieces. Put lemon slices on top. Cook 30 minutes more at a low heat.Add the fish to the sauce gently, taking care not to break up the pieces. Put lemon slices on top. Cook 30 minutes more at a low heat.
Ladle over white rice and garnish with chopped green onion and chopped eggs.Ladle over white rice and garnish with chopped green onion and chopped eggs.