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You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/19/the-rise-of-mending-how-britain-learned-to-repair-clothes-again
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The rise of mending: how Britain learned to repair clothes again | The rise of mending: how Britain learned to repair clothes again |
(35 minutes later) | |
When Make Do & Mend (“we make things and mend things,” says Pippa Bray, | When Make Do & Mend (“we make things and mend things,” says Pippa Bray, |
the shop's owner) opened its doors in 2002, they had expected to | |
be reasonably busy. That turned out to be an understatement. They weren’t just busy, they were inundated, getting | be reasonably busy. That turned out to be an understatement. They weren’t just busy, they were inundated, getting |
busier all the time. And then the economic crisis arrived – and business | busier all the time. And then the economic crisis arrived – and business |
went through the roof. “When the recession hit, people became more conscious of cost and | went through the roof. “When the recession hit, people became more conscious of cost and |
started valuing their clothes more. We do a lot of replacing zips, | started valuing their clothes more. We do a lot of replacing zips, |
taking up hems, altering old clothes to fit,” says Bray. The shop, in St Day in | taking up hems, altering old clothes to fit,” says Bray. The shop, in St Day in |
Cornwall, now employs 12 people, and turns out a constant supply of | Cornwall, now employs 12 people, and turns out a constant supply of |
fixed pockets, patched jeans, relined jackets, and taken up hems. While | fixed pockets, patched jeans, relined jackets, and taken up hems. While |
the small jobs are the bread and butter of the business, they have also | the small jobs are the bread and butter of the business, they have also |
on request expanded into upholstery, marine-ware (such as boat covers | on request expanded into upholstery, marine-ware (such as boat covers |
and cushions), and even academic gowns for university graduates.According to Pippa, it’s a huge growth industry but there are not | and cushions), and even academic gowns for university graduates.According to Pippa, it’s a huge growth industry but there are not |
enough skilled people. “I’m always being asked to show people how to put | enough skilled people. “I’m always being asked to show people how to put |
in a zip or patch jeans. It’s just not taught anywhere any more. Good | in a zip or patch jeans. It’s just not taught anywhere any more. Good |
clothes are like old friends and it’s nice to see when people don’t have | clothes are like old friends and it’s nice to see when people don’t have |
to throw away a jacket or something they’ve had for 20 years.” | to throw away a jacket or something they’ve had for 20 years.” |
Making or altering clothes may seem like a humble pursuit. But | |
research by the Craft & Hobby Trade Association (CHA-UK) shows that | research by the Craft & Hobby Trade Association (CHA-UK) shows that |
the entire crafting industry (which also includes knitting, cake | the entire crafting industry (which also includes knitting, cake |
decorating, painting and other handycrafts) is worth a whopping £3.1bn to the UK economy. It is also, as if from nowhere, wildly | decorating, painting and other handycrafts) is worth a whopping £3.1bn to the UK economy. It is also, as if from nowhere, wildly |
popular. About 3.5 million people in the UK are involved in making their | popular. About 3.5 million people in the UK are involved in making their |
own clothes with a sewing machine according to CHA-UK, and of that | own clothes with a sewing machine according to CHA-UK, and of that |
number 433,000 only started sewing in the last 12 months.“The last few years have been epic for the industry,” says Fiona | number 433,000 only started sewing in the last 12 months.“The last few years have been epic for the industry,” says Fiona |
Bray, founder of the Sewing Directory and described by some as the | Bray, founder of the Sewing Directory and described by some as the |
godmother of the sewing world. She thinks the economic crisis has | godmother of the sewing world. She thinks the economic crisis has |
driven people towards a more Make Do & Mend mentality, and growing | driven people towards a more Make Do & Mend mentality, and growing |
environmental awareness is making people more conscious of where their | environmental awareness is making people more conscious of where their |
clothes come from. “People are trying to be less disposable. They would | clothes come from. “People are trying to be less disposable. They would |
rather buy something quality and keep repairing it. The Great British | rather buy something quality and keep repairing it. The Great British |
Sewing Bee helped a lot [John Lewis has seen a 22% increase in sewing | Sewing Bee helped a lot [John Lewis has seen a 22% increase in sewing |
machine sales since the show ran last year] but shows like that simply | machine sales since the show ran last year] but shows like that simply |
piggy back on existing trends. It was already happening.” | piggy back on existing trends. It was already happening.” |
Tom van Deijnen runs the Visible Mending programme in Brighton and has a | Tom van Deijnen runs the Visible Mending programme in Brighton and has a |
mission to show that repairs to clothes can in themselves be | mission to show that repairs to clothes can in themselves be |
beautiful. “Wear your darn like a badge of honour,” he says. When he | beautiful. “Wear your darn like a badge of honour,” he says. When he |
takes on a commission he asks, “Why would you like me to repair this? | takes on a commission he asks, “Why would you like me to repair this? |
What makes you want to keep it?” | What makes you want to keep it?” |
“I started repairing because I realised there is a lot of work and | “I started repairing because I realised there is a lot of work and |
skill involved in making clothes. It takes a long time. I began to | skill involved in making clothes. It takes a long time. I began to |
appreciate the skill and effort all these anonymous people put in to | appreciate the skill and effort all these anonymous people put in to |
making clothes for the high street. If you want to make people | making clothes for the high street. If you want to make people |
understand why £4 for a T-shirt is not the right price, get them to make | understand why £4 for a T-shirt is not the right price, get them to make |
an item of clothing. We should respect them for making these clothes | an item of clothing. We should respect them for making these clothes |
for us, especially at the prices we pay.” | for us, especially at the prices we pay.” |
Although the mending movement is still small, Tom says it is growing and | Although the mending movement is still small, Tom says it is growing and |
people are coming round to the idea that you can’t just throw things | people are coming round to the idea that you can’t just throw things |
out any more, you need to fix them. He points out that Repair Cafés, | out any more, you need to fix them. He points out that Repair Cafés, |
where you can turn up with anything from a wonky chair to a smashed | where you can turn up with anything from a wonky chair to a smashed |
smart phone and find out how to fix it, are becoming increasingly | smart phone and find out how to fix it, are becoming increasingly |
common. “People are starting to see the importance of repairing again,” | common. “People are starting to see the importance of repairing again,” |
he says. | he says. |
“They don’t teach sewing in most schools nowadays, or mothers don’t get a | “They don’t teach sewing in most schools nowadays, or mothers don’t get a |
chance to teach them, or they’re frightened, they think the machine is | chance to teach them, or they’re frightened, they think the machine is |
going to run away with them,” says Mary Ann Robbins, who runs workshops | going to run away with them,” says Mary Ann Robbins, who runs workshops |
around Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire under the name Sewing Seams | around Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire under the name Sewing Seams |
Easy, teaching people how to use a sewing machine and to refashion old | Easy, teaching people how to use a sewing machine and to refashion old |
clothes. Over the last couple of years her business has grown | clothes. Over the last couple of years her business has grown |
dramatically. | dramatically. |
Dressmaking and refashioning has also seen a huge upsurge in interest, | Dressmaking and refashioning has also seen a huge upsurge in interest, |
partly, according to sewing blogger Rachel Pinheiro, thanks to the | partly, according to sewing blogger Rachel Pinheiro, thanks to the |
internet. “The techniques of sewing are the same now as they were 100 | internet. “The techniques of sewing are the same now as they were 100 |
years ago. There is nothing new when it comes to making things. But over | years ago. There is nothing new when it comes to making things. But over |
the last few years people have begun to find each other and share ideas | the last few years people have begun to find each other and share ideas |
as they have never been able to before. There are fresh ideas in terms | as they have never been able to before. There are fresh ideas in terms |
of design and colour, and a change of aesthetic. It’s brought a whole | of design and colour, and a change of aesthetic. It’s brought a whole |
new audience to the hobby.” Sewing and mending communities are springing | new audience to the hobby.” Sewing and mending communities are springing |
up and forming networks via twitter or Pinterest, through innovations | up and forming networks via twitter or Pinterest, through innovations |
like as #makedoandmendhour, where every Thursday evening Jen Gale of the | like as #makedoandmendhour, where every Thursday evening Jen Gale of the |
Makedoandmendyear blog, hosts a hashtag-based hubbub of ideas, jokes, | Makedoandmendyear blog, hosts a hashtag-based hubbub of ideas, jokes, |
and requests for mending advice. | and requests for mending advice. |
“It really is a wonderful community to be a part of,” says Pinheiro. | “It really is a wonderful community to be a part of,” says Pinheiro. |
“That’s one of the great attractions of sewing, it’s the people. We joke | “That’s one of the great attractions of sewing, it’s the people. We joke |
there is a special sewing gene that makes that person immediately | there is a special sewing gene that makes that person immediately |
friendly.”For Fiona that community has been the bedrock of her new career. The | friendly.”For Fiona that community has been the bedrock of her new career. The |
Sewing Directory was meant to be a minor pastime that fit around her | Sewing Directory was meant to be a minor pastime that fit around her |
young son, but the sudden explosion in popularity means it has taken | young son, but the sudden explosion in popularity means it has taken |
over. “I work 60 hours a week,” she says. “I could take on people and | over. “I work 60 hours a week,” she says. “I could take on people and |
work seven days a week but there is still more work.” Her success has | work seven days a week but there is still more work.” Her success has |
also opened other opportunities: she now trains other craft businesses | also opened other opportunities: she now trains other craft businesses |
in the dark arts of SEO and marketing, she writes regularly for sewing | in the dark arts of SEO and marketing, she writes regularly for sewing |
magazines, and has just finished her first book, a guide to running a | magazines, and has just finished her first book, a guide to running a |
creative business. “It’s not just me,” she says. “Lots of my customers | creative business. “It’s not just me,” she says. “Lots of my customers |
are so busy.” “Sewing is empowering,” says Rachel. “Not just in terms of | are so busy.” “Sewing is empowering,” says Rachel. “Not just in terms of |
creativity, but it also allows you to share knowledge with others, to | creativity, but it also allows you to share knowledge with others, to |
make friends around the world and experience their culture. The internet | make friends around the world and experience their culture. The internet |
is like a chemical agent for speeding everything up. Whatever is going | is like a chemical agent for speeding everything up. Whatever is going |
on in the world, the sewing community responds somehow.”On 14 April, for example, the anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy | on in the world, the sewing community responds somehow.”On 14 April, for example, the anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy |
in Bangladesh, people wore their clothes inside out to show the labels, | in Bangladesh, people wore their clothes inside out to show the labels, |
to show they weren’t supporting the companies implicated in the | to show they weren’t supporting the companies implicated in the |
disaster. Rachel says “people who sew their own clothes have their own | disaster. Rachel says “people who sew their own clothes have their own |
labels. We can say ‘this is made by me’, the exact opposite of the mass | labels. We can say ‘this is made by me’, the exact opposite of the mass |
manufactured industry.”That is a kind of satisfaction that can’t be beaten, according to | manufactured industry.”That is a kind of satisfaction that can’t be beaten, according to |
the nouveau-stitchers. “People want the satisfaction of being creative,” | the nouveau-stitchers. “People want the satisfaction of being creative,” |
Rachel says. “But life is also busy and this is a way people can find | Rachel says. “But life is also busy and this is a way people can find |
each other, they can find their club.” | each other, they can find their club.” |
Interested in finding out more about how you can live better? Take a look at this month's Live Better Challenge here. | Interested in finding out more about how you can live better? Take a look at this month's Live Better Challenge here. |
The Live Better | The Live Better |
Challenge is funded by Unilever; its focus is sustainable living. All | Challenge is funded by Unilever; its focus is sustainable living. All |
content is editorially independent except for pieces labelled | content is editorially independent except for pieces labelled |
advertisement feature. Find out more here. | advertisement feature. Find out more here. |